Community
Black Powder Ask opinions of other hunters on new technology, gear, and the methods of blackpowder hunting.

need advice about casting

Thread Tools
 
Old 05-06-2012, 08:21 AM
  #11  
Nontypical Buck
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,184
Default

I am not seeing the frost on them my self. Frosting normally happens to alloyed lead. I have never seen soft lead ( 5 BHN to 8 BHN) frost. In the middle picture the two balls on the left look like they have a tint of blue. That to me looks like soft lead and no frosting at all. They are wrinkled bad but I don't see frost.

To the OP. I am with the rest. You need to just clean the mould good. Get the lead, and mould hot. If it is a bottom pour pot make sure your getting good fast flow from the spout. Slow flow from the pot or ladle with allow the lead to cool as it is going into the mould. That will also cause wrinkles.
Speed up your pouring, and grade them after you have some done. After you get better you will be able to grade as you go but it will take time. For a while just pour some balls and get used to the whole thing. Ron
idahoron is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 08:30 AM
  #12  
Spike
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location:
Posts: 45
Default

Originally Posted by cayugad
Before I start casting, I clean the mold with alcohol. Then when it's dry I apply my mold lube. It looks like either your lead is not hot enough, or your mold is too cool. Turn the heat up a little more. Like Lee said, hold the corner of the mold in the lead. Count to thirty. Lift the mold. The lead should fall off back in the pot. And when you get casting stick with it. Do not stop to admire your... work. It takes time but when you find the groove, cast like the devil.
cayugad, Do you ever burn a match to get carbon inside the cavity itself? Is that even necessary? How often do I need to lube the mold (the V's and grooves, the bolt and nut and the alignment pins) every time before I start casting?
Mike R. is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 08:34 AM
  #13  
Spike
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location:
Posts: 45
Default

Originally Posted by idahoron
I am not seeing the frost on them my self. Frosting normally happens to alloyed lead. I have never seen soft lead ( 5 BHN to 8 BHN) frost. In the middle picture the two balls on the left look like they have a tint of blue. That to me looks like soft lead and no frosting at all. They are wrinkled bad but I don't see frost.

To the OP. I am with the rest. You need to just clean the mould good. Get the lead, and mould hot. If it is a bottom pour pot make sure your getting good fast flow from the spout. Slow flow from the pot or ladle with allow the lead to cool as it is going into the mould. That will also cause wrinkles.
Speed up your pouring, and grade them after you have some done. After you get better you will be able to grade as you go but it will take time. For a while just pour some balls and get used to the whole thing. Ron
Thanks Ron, I'm using a "Hot Pot 2" an electric pot for melting. I read a lot of reviews and they seemed to be good so as a beginner I figured the hot pot 2 would work good. Did I make a mistake buying it? Has anyone had a bad experience using it? I hope I just need to speed up my process and get into a good rhythm.
Mike R. is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 10:19 AM
  #14  
Dominant Buck
 
cayugad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 21,193
Default

cayugad, Do you ever burn a match to get carbon inside the cavity itself? Is that even necessary? How often do I need to lube the mold (the V's and grooves, the bolt and nut and the alignment pins) every time before I start casting?
I use a candle to smoke the mold. But I also have a product I purchased when I first started casting. It is called "Rapine Mold Lube" and it is like liquid carbon in a bottle. I use a model builder's brush and paint the inside and the hinge on the molds first. Then if I think of it, I will smoke the mold, but with the lube I really don't think it is necessary.

Just smoke the mold real hard before you start molding. And lets say after a hundred ball cast, you decided to have a break and rest... smoke it again before you start. The mold will start to come clean eventually.

One other hint.. some do not do this. When I am finished with casting for the day, I leave the last ball in the mold and let the mold cool this way. I use LEE molds which are aluminum and was taught they are subject to warping if they cool too fast. The ball left in the mold allows the mold to cool from the outside in. My molds are over 30 years old (some of them) and I still cast a great roundball out of them.
cayugad is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 01:57 PM
  #15  
Spike
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location:
Posts: 45
Default

Gentlemen: thanks for your help and advice. Here are some pics of today's results...much better, I think.
Attached Thumbnails need advice about casting-.451-round-balls-014.jpg   need advice about casting-.451-round-balls-020.jpg  
Mike R. is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 02:24 PM
  #16  
Nontypical Buck
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,834
Default

Originally Posted by cayugad
Before I start casting, I clean the mold with alcohol. Then when it's dry I apply my mold lube. It looks like either your lead is not hot enough, or your mold is too cool. Turn the heat up a little more. Like Lee said, hold the corner of the mold in the lead. Count to thirty. Lift the mold. The lead should fall off back in the pot. And when you get casting stick with it. Do not stop to admire your... work. It takes time but when you find the groove, cast like the devil.
Sounds like most have hit it on the head. The only thing I could add is instead of dipping your mold between castings, I just let it rest on the top of the melting between drops and am good to go.
Cayugad is right on cleaning between casting sessions with alcohol and then spraying with drop out spray. Makes a huge difference!!!!!
SecondChance is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 03:45 PM
  #17  
Dominant Buck
 
cayugad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 21,193
Default

Those look real good. If you have a scale... weigh some and see how close you are. It will surprise you how good you did. And I have to ask.. did you pick any of them up with your fingers before they were cool? I always tell myself I am not going to do it.. and always come off the day with burnt fingers.
cayugad is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 05:04 PM
  #18  
Spike
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location:
Posts: 45
Default

Originally Posted by cayugad
And I have to ask.. did you pick any of them up with your fingers before they were cool? I always tell myself I am not going to do it.. and always come off the day with burnt fingers.
Funny you should ask!!! Of course I did, ouch!!!
Mike R. is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 05:20 PM
  #19  
Dominant Buck
 
cayugad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 21,193
Default

its nice to know that I am not alone. Its like they draw you to them... pick me up.. please, pick me up.
cayugad is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 06:59 PM
  #20  
Boone & Crockett
 
Semisane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: River Ridge, LA (Suburb of New Orleans)
Posts: 10,918
Default

According to OSHA mandatory provision 17.3, the following sign is required in all casting areas.


WARNING: Allow your balls to cool before handling by yourself or others.
Semisane is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.