52 in the Rock Pit
05-06-2012, 12:07 PM
#11
Boone & Crockett
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
I just don't share that opinion Sabotloader. I don't think such gas cutting exists. With Teflon tape you may get the tape pushed back from the first thread or two, but nothing past that. If that's the case, the only real issue is crud build up in the gap left between the face of the plug and the plug stop, requiring a little extra cleaning care.
As for the force of blow back on the threads, it seems to me it is the same whether the plug is snug or not. I know some guys stop screwing the plug as soon as it contacts the stop and do not tighten it down. In that case the mechanical situation is the same as a plug backed out a small bit.
Are there any mechanical engineers out there? What are the force dynamics on a threaded bolt - tightened vs. untightened.
I suspect the critical factor is the number of threads in contact with each other, not pressure against a stop. Tightening a bolt is important so as to prevent it's loosening and backing out. But backing out is not really an issue in a muzzle loader, and clearly impossible with models such as Omegas, Knight Visions, and others where theres a breech face against the rear of the plug.
I also think if you talk to any manufacturer they will tell you the BP snug - not loose.
05-06-2012, 02:05 PM
#14
Boone & Crockett
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
But then you a moveable-looseable part that you have to keep track of, plus it makes it much more difficult to put Teflon tape on with a moving part.
The 0.248" shim is the best thing I have found... They also make a 0.174 shim with a larger choice is thicknesses to get the exact fit if you can not get it done with the 0.248 shim. Just put the 0.174 in first and then the 0.248 to hold it in place.
Once the 0.248 is inserted and pressed down it is not going anywhere.
05-06-2012, 02:07 PM
#15
Boone & Crockett
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
05-06-2012, 02:50 PM
#16
Boone & Crockett
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
OK I think this will show.
I have installed the 0.248" OD shim in the chamfer of the primer pocket. That is a far as it will go without pressure to push it down to the primer shelf. A dead primer works very well as the punch to drive the shim to the bottom. As it goes down it compresses the ID of the inner circle a bit to fit the walls of the primer pocket.
I have installed the 0.248" OD shim in the chamfer of the primer pocket. That is a far as it will go without pressure to push it down to the primer shelf. A dead primer works very well as the punch to drive the shim to the bottom. As it goes down it compresses the ID of the inner circle a bit to fit the walls of the primer pocket.
Last edited by sabotloader; 05-06-2012 at 02:53 PM.
05-07-2012, 02:43 PM
#17
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Saxonburg Pa
Posts: 3,925
You got me thinking about this now, my 1/20 needs metal taken away not added.
05-07-2012, 08:54 PM
#19
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 428
i use the stainless washer and put them on the primer self and they work well for me on one gun i have around 500 rounds on it and steel working very good and puts about .004 crush on the primer and very clean and goes off every time i pull the trigger and they stay put like sabot sayed have six knights done this way custom fit on every gun not all the same
Last edited by a1smokepole; 05-07-2012 at 09:02 PM.
