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Broke my Knight ram rod

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Old 03-21-2011, 11:39 AM
  #1  
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Default Broke my Knight ram rod

The 1st few years with the .50 Elite were great. I was using t7 and all lead ssb 285's. Deer where going down mostly where they stood at ranges out to about 185. One swab was no problem with the easy loading lead bullets.

Then I thought BH209 might make things cleaner and maybe prevent a little corrosion. Then I went through the usual corrections to make it work. Just bought the Lehigh bp, but havent shot it yet.

Last year I started using the 250 gold dots,hph12 sabots, and about 110gr of bh209 with cci mag s. I grew up with hoppes #9 and loved the smell. Had a couple of old bottles laying around and used it and break free to lube the inside and out when done. After the seasons ended or before a final sighting in for deer season, I'd break it down and clean the barrel with Blue Wonder that lists removing copper, lead and plastic in shotguns and mz's. More often though I'd scrub with cva advanced sabot shooter solvent that is supposed to remove plastic and bp fouling.

This Year, using the above load, I shot quite a bit during the season, so probably didnt use a plastic remover, just hoppes and breakfree. Last day of the season, the gold dots were starting to load hard and I actually broke the hollow alum rod (wasnt feeling good that day anyway, so I probably wasnt as careful as I should have been.)

Took her home and cleaned as usual with a bronze brush and hoppes and put her away till another day.

Then I started scrubbing with the harsher removers and all kinds a nasty black came out. Did this about 6 times. Probably could still dirty a patch. I'll scrub up a bronze brush a try again just to see.

What I found was a tight spot half way down the barrel and another tighter spot about 3-4 inches in front of the breech plug.

This was loading gd 250 w/a hph12. switching to a long black crush rib it got easier, maybe too easy for bh209.

A 300 barnes with the long black sabout they came with loaded easier than the gd, but was a little harder to start/.

OK, please hit me with some suggestions for proper cleaning with bh209 and maybe some websight for the stuff.

Another error I'd made was using a flexable glass? rod for a range rod. I always thought the barnes where way too hard to load but it was the rod flexing. I used an old wooden rod from the tc Hawken days and the barnes wasnt all that bad.

Suggest a solid alum rod for my ram rod, with which jag attached? I have an old spin jag on the flex rod that I'll keep just for cleaning.

I've never used any abrasive in the bore. I did use some 0000steel wool & oil in it this week though. What do you think?

Last edited by grizzly 2; 03-21-2011 at 11:44 AM.
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:45 AM
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:49 AM
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As much as I like Hoppe's smell too. I don't think it cleans BH 209 very good. I use Butch's Bore Shine, and it does a good job.
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:09 PM
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http://www.blackhorn209.com/specs/general-cleaning/

The technical data section has how to clean BH209. One section shows how to clean the breech plug.
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:26 PM
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MD, suggested birchwood casey gun scrubber as a alternative to Hoppe's, i tried it and it works excellent.i think the MMp-12 may be your loading problem.you mentioned the harvester smooth blacks loaded better but maybe a tad to loose. try a MMp-24 maybe. i don't recall ever seeing a post where a Knight used a mmp-12.. just some thoughts.. Ray
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:37 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by grizzly 2

OK, please hit me with some suggestions for proper cleaning with bh209 and maybe some websight for the stuff.

Another error I'd made was using a flexable glass? rod for a range rod. I always thought the barnes where way too hard to load but it was the rod flexing. I used an old wooden rod from the tc Hawken days and the barnes wasnt all that bad.

Suggest a solid alum rod for my ram rod, with which jag attached? I have an old spin jag on the flex rod that I'll keep just for cleaning.

I've never used any abrasive in the bore. I did use some 0000steel wool & oil in it this week though. What do you think?
Couple of thoughts I would suggest.... and these are suggestions only....

But, all honesty the first thing I would do is to boil the barrel out. By that I mean stick the muzzle on the rifle in a bucket and pour boiling water down the barrel. This action strips all the oil and crud off the metal. Plastic fouling will melt and loosen from the lands and grooves, some it will still stay in the bore but when you look down through you will see the flakes hanging in the bore. Cautions:.... if this is a carbon steel barrel (blued) - when you get it out of the water bath - get the bore dried as soon as possible, either using compressed air or several dry patches... and yes you minght see some 'flash rust' on the patches. If it is a stainless barrel it will not show the 'flash' rust. When dry and as the barrel is cooling - run your bronze brush with a good bore cleaner, I use either Butches Bore Shine og Barnes CR-10.

From there the next thing I would suggest is to obtain some JB's bore shine and run a 100 strokes of JB's... 4 patches - 25 stokes each... Oh and the patches will be a very bad black looking patch.

Here is a video that might help...

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1...G_Bore_Pellets

After running the JB's get as much out as you can with some thing like patches soaked with BC Gun Scrubber... When they are coming out fairly clean... Back to the bucket and boiling water - repeating what you did before....

This time when the bore is rinsed, dried, and HOT run some wet patches of a quality bore oil in the bore and let the heat of the bore suck it up. When the barrel is cool - then begin getting as muxh oil out as you can with dry patches. When you have finished that if you are going to shoot it again in the near future you are done... If it is going into storage run a damp patch of bore oil again put it together and put it away...

Ram-Rod....

Do you want another gun rod or a range rod type rod? I have a ton (well not a ton) of gun rods around here that I could send you if you want a loading/cleaning jag installed I can do that also... let me know.
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:40 PM
  #7  
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builder459

There are a lot of the older Knights that use the HPH-12's. Back then under the the original owners they bores were larger than todays GM standard.

My Knight MK need the older thicker short black sabot. And a few of the original DISC's came with the larger bore...

OOPs! he has an Elite you might be right on that one... Althought Tom's Elite 50 is just under a .504 bore...

Last edited by sabotloader; 03-21-2011 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 03-21-2011, 01:54 PM
  #8  
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Sabot...If you put some Ballistol in the hot water. You won't get the flash rust,and can take your time drying it out. I clean my Hawken that way, and never get rust.
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:11 PM
  #9  
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While it's hard to beat Sabot's offer to send you a rod, I have this one from Cabela's and have been very pleased. I put a 3/8" muzzle protecor on it and she's wonderful for the range and cleaning.

It comes with a 45 & 50 jag and cost $22. Just my two bits.


http://www.cabelas.com/product/Shoot...3Bcat104436180
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:32 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by sabotloader
builder459

There are a lot of the older Knights that use the HPH-12's. Back then under the the original owners they bores were larger than todays GM standard.

My Knight MK need the older thicker short black sabot. And a few of the original DISC's came with the larger bore...

OOPs! he has an Elite you might be right on that one... Althought Tom's Elite 50 is just under a .504 bore...
Yep it's a elite. also read his post closely regarding sabot choice. i think he's using a brass brush also which will keep things looking dirty. i always use synthetic and you don't get that continued dirty look.thr bore scrubber MD mentioned is a very good cleaner also. Ray
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