Originally Posted by SmokeSeeker

caribsteve,I would not try the HORNADY XTP it is a very awful bullet and if you use it you might have to call the NYS SEARCH TEAM/WITH DOGs ask breechplug for the number.After shooting the XTP's for 20 years he know's it by Heart.
Anyways Listen to cayugad and SabotLoader IMO the BEST bullets out there is Barnes,Nosler,Speer,Lehigh.

Originally Posted by caribsteve

Well personally I am a pass through person also.... I would not shoot a bullet that pancakes in the animal and fails to pass through - yet that same pan caking bullet has and will harvest a lot of animals. I have never been much on entrance and exit holes either it is what it does between the hide that counts.... My theory continues to be I want a bullet that causes enough trama inside an animal that it over rides the animal fright/flight response and you as a bow hunter really know what I am talking about about. Everytime I pull the trigger on an Elk or a deer I totally expect the animal to drop right there on the spot. Most of the time if I feel I have nade the shot I need I do not even reload - not worth it. I select bullets that give me that type of Harvest. The three types of bullets that I suggested have the abilty to do exactly that - the two premium bullets have a little more chance than the Speer. Now, I also got to say not always does the DRT happen but if they move more than 30 yards (I really want to say 30 feet but I need to build in a cushion) - I think my shot and my bullet was a failure - IF I DID MY PART.

On this forum we just had a huge discussion about XTP's and Spreer. XTP's have killed more deer in this country than any other single bullet - but I would not use it, except for target practice... The bullet is 30 years old using old technology the Speer is faily new using new technology + contolled expansion. It will not come apart as a Hornady can on RARE occasion, and it is bonded copper/to lead. So does all of this make the Speer a better bullet - in my book yes and in the mids of a lot of others no.

Since you are a bow hunter and assuming you have been doing it for awhile... have you ever changed the broad head you were using? Why?



Think I explained my thoughts on hunting bullets - plinking or target shooting - price is a big factor and I prefer to shoot a bullet od near the same weight that I might shoot while hunting - that way I do not have to use those expensive bullets for recreation...



No it is not that easy.... You will have to take the best long range advice from us for your bore - get some of those and give them a try for fit... Or someone like I would send you a sample of the range of sabots - you pull your breech plug and push the samples through the bore and make a decision what sabot might work best for you. Then you will have to try the competitors sabot to see if it might provide better accuracy... My self i am pretty much a MMP person because they work so well for me in the colder temps we have here in northern Idaho.

Whoa - this long better quit. Read through and see what you think.

Originally Posted by cayugad

________________
Black powder rifle supplies

DECIDE ON THE KIND OF POWDER

• Pyrodex
• Triple Se7en
• Goex
• Black Mag3
• American Pioneer Powder
• Black Horn 209

make sure your rifle can shoot the kind of powder you select. Also decide if you want to shoot pellets or loose powder. Both will work in inline rifles with a 209 ignition system. Loose powder is cheaper. If starting out, I would go with Pyrodex RS or Triple Seven 2f until I establish a load. After that if you want to experiment with other powders, that’s where the fun comes in.



TOOLS NEEDED

• See through powder measure
• Cleaning jag
• Cleaning mop
• Patch worm
• Bore brush
• Short starter (if an inline, I like a T handle short starter.)
• Capper/de-capper
• (2) Loading jags for the projectile. One for the ramrod, one for the short starter. Some loading jags also are knurled so you can use them as a cleaning tool also.
• Nipple pick
• Breech plug removal tool – these are often included with the rifle. Also what works in some cases are a socket set with long extensions


CLEANING SUPPLIES
• Isopropyl alcohol 91%
• Car windshield washer fluid
• Bore butter or lube for conical bullets
• Gun Oil – Birchwood Casey Sheath, REM OIL, Breakfree CLP, Montana Extreme gun products.
• Q-tip safety swabs
• Cleaning Patches
• Bore Solvents
1. Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber
2. Butch’s Bore Shine
3. M.A.P. – Murphy’s oil soap, alcohol, hydrogen peroxide

Not all of these cleaning supplies are needed. Get a good quality kitchen cleaner like Simple Green, or Windex. That will take the fouling out of the barrels. Also can be used to swab the bore. And then a good solvent to help in cleaning. Read your owners manual for cleaning instructions.

PROJECTILES

• Sabots for the caliber of rifle
• Bullets to match sabots according to the diameter of the bullet
• Conicals


When you select a projectile, often times the manufacturer will give recommendations. I normally start off with some 250 grain Shockwaves and some 300 grain Hornady XTP's with the sabots that come with them. This will get you on paper, sometimes shoot very well, and also get you used to the rifle. After that you can experiment with all sorts of things. Conicals are another area of concern for some. Some states require Conicals for hunting. Look at the BullShop Conicals, No Excuses, and Great Plains if you wish to throw large chunks of lead around.

I am sure I forgot some things but others can add on to this. Also I can not stress the value fo a good range rod. They are better built then the one that comes with your rifle. They are longer, and can take more abuse. I save the rifle ramrod for hunting and show. Otherwise I get a good range ramrod and do all my loading and cleaning with that.

Originally Posted by Semisane

What the heck is a Jack Wagon anyway?

Originally Posted by Semisane

What the heck is a Jack Wagon anyway?