cleaning between shots
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Dewittville NY USA
Posts: 46
cleaning between shots
My gun seems to move around when I'm a the range. My first shot is always good. I am thinking it has to do with my cleaning between shots. I run a presocked pach up and down the bore flip it over run it up and down again then do the same with a dry pacth load and shot. What do you all do. I am shotting lose powder. I'm thinking that I might not be getting the bore dry or maybe getting cleaner in the breach plug.
#2
just depends on the powder, projectile and what I am working on. for my between shot method.
I use alcohol and windex (either on there on patches or in an 50/50 form) and an dry patch both sides while shooting pyrodex rs, p, triple 7 and app when using powerbelts and sabots loads.
no clean between shots with bh209 and patch and round ball loads (patch does the cleaning for me)
closer to hunting season, I goto cleaning every two shots, clean bore on the first and an follow up shot.
I use alcohol and windex (either on there on patches or in an 50/50 form) and an dry patch both sides while shooting pyrodex rs, p, triple 7 and app when using powerbelts and sabots loads.
no clean between shots with bh209 and patch and round ball loads (patch does the cleaning for me)
closer to hunting season, I goto cleaning every two shots, clean bore on the first and an follow up shot.
#3
bossmoss
You do not say which powder you are using, so I am guessing something other than BH...
Most pre-soaked patches are way to wet and they will leave moistur in the bore and possibly in the 'flash hole or channel' even though you run a dry patch.
A lot of folks use ISO Alcohol to help minimize this problem - I really do not like to use the ISO as in most cases it strips the bore to raw metal which I am not fond of especially hunting as you then have no bore protection at all. Many folks have got hung up on the vact that manufactures of sabots indicate 'no lubrication' in the bore the sabots are self lubricating. And in most instances they are correct as the lubrication may not allow the sabot to 'grip' the lands. The real key is to shoot a sabot that is snug enough to grab and minimal lubrication (bore protection. I use a product that I think solve this problem in that it contains Glycol Ether and synthetic lubricants... It evaporates in a hurry and leaves a very thin layer of protection when dry patched - perfect for bore protection and shooting sabots. Just about forgot - Montana X-Treme Bore Conditioner.
For patching at the range I make up some pre-made patches just for that purpose. They are just barely moist and that is all you need + plus you do not have to run a dry patch afterwards when you get them made correctly... Here is a picture diagram...
I should also give you a disclaimer - I do a lot things against the norm - but they work very well for me...
You do not say which powder you are using, so I am guessing something other than BH...
Most pre-soaked patches are way to wet and they will leave moistur in the bore and possibly in the 'flash hole or channel' even though you run a dry patch.
A lot of folks use ISO Alcohol to help minimize this problem - I really do not like to use the ISO as in most cases it strips the bore to raw metal which I am not fond of especially hunting as you then have no bore protection at all. Many folks have got hung up on the vact that manufactures of sabots indicate 'no lubrication' in the bore the sabots are self lubricating. And in most instances they are correct as the lubrication may not allow the sabot to 'grip' the lands. The real key is to shoot a sabot that is snug enough to grab and minimal lubrication (bore protection. I use a product that I think solve this problem in that it contains Glycol Ether and synthetic lubricants... It evaporates in a hurry and leaves a very thin layer of protection when dry patched - perfect for bore protection and shooting sabots. Just about forgot - Montana X-Treme Bore Conditioner.
For patching at the range I make up some pre-made patches just for that purpose. They are just barely moist and that is all you need + plus you do not have to run a dry patch afterwards when you get them made correctly... Here is a picture diagram...
I should also give you a disclaimer - I do a lot things against the norm - but they work very well for me...
#4
Typical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 542
I clean exactly as you do between shots. The first shot or two out of my gun is a little high and right. The next shots of course are low and left but group tightly. It seems from anecdotal evidence that is is somewhat common for the gun to shoot a little differently on a cold barrel. Now if you aren't grouping, that probably has more to do with the powder/bullet combination. My Knight is grouping excellent, my TC less so. But I am using the same bullets and powder in both. I need to try some different combinations on the TC to find what works best.
#5
Don't just consider the swabbing technique. I was having a terrible time for a while on the bench rest. Then I started to notice that the more I shot the more my grip and position on the bench itself was changing. I started paying more attention to the way I addressed the rifle before shooting and it has made a world of difference in my groups.
#6
cayugad
!!!! Dave... excellent thoughts... on of the big no-no's I see is placement of the front rest on the forearm, and what you might be doing with the front hand.
Most stocks today will flex the farther out the forearm you put the front rest, even wood stocks can - this will/can move the POI.. Often we do not even work at keeping the front rest in the same location through all the shots. I am so anal, as Tom noted when he was out here, I even put the sabot in the same orientation every time I shoot, but on the other end of the spectrum - I still refuse to weigh loads I throw them on site... I am a mess...
I was watching a hunting show on TV the other day, a guy hunting a hog. No this was suppose to be a professional hunter right.... He was using a full standing bi-pod. The guide handed him the bi-pod and said make sure you shoot it in the head... I'll be danged if the shooter did not put the bi-pod under the barrel 'on the metal' then reach up with his front hand grab the forearm and you know he pulled down on the wood to keep the recoil from lifting the gun out of the bi-pod. After the shot they all congratulated each other - so on TV it worked!!! but???
!!!! Dave... excellent thoughts... on of the big no-no's I see is placement of the front rest on the forearm, and what you might be doing with the front hand.
Most stocks today will flex the farther out the forearm you put the front rest, even wood stocks can - this will/can move the POI.. Often we do not even work at keeping the front rest in the same location through all the shots. I am so anal, as Tom noted when he was out here, I even put the sabot in the same orientation every time I shoot, but on the other end of the spectrum - I still refuse to weigh loads I throw them on site... I am a mess...
I was watching a hunting show on TV the other day, a guy hunting a hog. No this was suppose to be a professional hunter right.... He was using a full standing bi-pod. The guide handed him the bi-pod and said make sure you shoot it in the head... I'll be danged if the shooter did not put the bi-pod under the barrel 'on the metal' then reach up with his front hand grab the forearm and you know he pulled down on the wood to keep the recoil from lifting the gun out of the bi-pod. After the shot they all congratulated each other - so on TV it worked!!! but???
#7
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Dewittville NY USA
Posts: 46
I am useing triple 777 ffg lose powder and 250 shock wave super glide. Sabotloader I feel you hit it I do feel like I'm not getting the bore dry and my flash hole wet. I am useing the T17 pre saturated patches. I will ring out the patches so they are dry and see if this helps. I am thinking of tring the 240gr xtp with the black sabot also.