Help for a rookie with TC Omega - It Worked!!
#1
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 921
Help for a rookie with TC Omega - It Worked!!
I'm new to the ML world as I purchased an Omega with the Cabelas Powder Horn scope about a month ago. Thus far I've made three trips to the range and and can't get any consistent groups.
I've been reading all of the post and have simply been confused by all the differing opinions.
Here's what I've done so far:
250 Shockwave's with yellow sabots
90 - 110 grns of loose T7
TC Primers
double wet patch and double dry patch between shots
Tried 245 grn Barnes MZ's with HPH 24's
all other components the same. Same results
My groups hit in a 6 - 10 " diameter at 100 meters. When I feel like I'm close, I have a flyer. No consistency at all.
I try to load with the same pressure each time. I take my time between shots for barrel cooling. I'm benched up with bags and shoot very tight groups with a variety of center fire rifles I own.
I'd like to be able to hunt with this gun but I have no confidence at this time. Any ideas to tighten things up?
I've been reading all of the post and have simply been confused by all the differing opinions.
Here's what I've done so far:
250 Shockwave's with yellow sabots
90 - 110 grns of loose T7
TC Primers
double wet patch and double dry patch between shots
Tried 245 grn Barnes MZ's with HPH 24's
all other components the same. Same results
My groups hit in a 6 - 10 " diameter at 100 meters. When I feel like I'm close, I have a flyer. No consistency at all.
I try to load with the same pressure each time. I take my time between shots for barrel cooling. I'm benched up with bags and shoot very tight groups with a variety of center fire rifles I own.
I'd like to be able to hunt with this gun but I have no confidence at this time. Any ideas to tighten things up?
Last edited by Josmund; 09-26-2009 at 02:04 PM. Reason: Updated Thread
#2
Typical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 986
Check your stock to barrel and action fit. My Omega has the synthetic stock and it touched the barrel causing a lot of inconsistency in shots. Also check the front mounting lug. Mine was loose and the screw could not be tightened which required shortening the screw. Make sure that the T7 crud ring is getting removed between shots. On my Omega just using a wet patch would not remove it. Mine required brass brush work between shots which is why I no longer use T7. Double check the scope mounts also.
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location:
Posts: 1,408
1) Check scope mounts
2) Remove action from stock, check all lug screws and screws in the action to make sure they're tight
3) Tighten the action back in the stock, try to use consistent pressure on both screws and do the front one first
4) Wrap a dollar bill around the muzzle and slide backwards. If it makes contact with the stock before you get back to the front recoil lug, that is not a good sign and the barrel needs to be floated.
5) Either back down to 80-85 grains powder or try a 300gr bullet (300 SW is good). Some barrels just don't like high velocity so you can either reduce powder (less energy with your 250gr bullet) or up the bullet weight to retain impact energy while allowing you to reduce velocity.
Is this the synthetic stock or wood?
How do the yellow sabots on the 250gr SW go down? Those sound like the superglide sabots, you should try the black ones.
2) Remove action from stock, check all lug screws and screws in the action to make sure they're tight
3) Tighten the action back in the stock, try to use consistent pressure on both screws and do the front one first
4) Wrap a dollar bill around the muzzle and slide backwards. If it makes contact with the stock before you get back to the front recoil lug, that is not a good sign and the barrel needs to be floated.
5) Either back down to 80-85 grains powder or try a 300gr bullet (300 SW is good). Some barrels just don't like high velocity so you can either reduce powder (less energy with your 250gr bullet) or up the bullet weight to retain impact energy while allowing you to reduce velocity.
Is this the synthetic stock or wood?
How do the yellow sabots on the 250gr SW go down? Those sound like the superglide sabots, you should try the black ones.
Last edited by spaniel; 09-07-2009 at 10:39 AM.
#4
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 921
TC Omega Reply
Thanks for the suggestions fellas.
Here is some additional information.
Rings and mounts are rock solid.
It's a synthetic stock.
The SW Sabots are the yellow ones which come with the standard package, however, I did have a few of the black ones which came with the gun. They may have shot better but I can't remember.
I tried to slide a thin piece of paper between the barrel and stock and it would only slide down an inch or so before becomming wedged. ( glad I didn't use money cause I had to tear it out )
The yellow sabots will only fit in a clean barrel and then very tight. The HPH 24's / Barnes 245 grn. MZ's slide down much easier but shoot no better.
Do I have a barrel / stock problem? If so, do I just unscrew the top screw a little or is there more involved?
I hunt Western KS so I'm trying for the best long range performance that's ethical and reasonable.
Thanks for your expertise and help!
Here is some additional information.
Rings and mounts are rock solid.
It's a synthetic stock.
The SW Sabots are the yellow ones which come with the standard package, however, I did have a few of the black ones which came with the gun. They may have shot better but I can't remember.
I tried to slide a thin piece of paper between the barrel and stock and it would only slide down an inch or so before becomming wedged. ( glad I didn't use money cause I had to tear it out )
The yellow sabots will only fit in a clean barrel and then very tight. The HPH 24's / Barnes 245 grn. MZ's slide down much easier but shoot no better.
Do I have a barrel / stock problem? If so, do I just unscrew the top screw a little or is there more involved?
I hunt Western KS so I'm trying for the best long range performance that's ethical and reasonable.
Thanks for your expertise and help!
#5
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,585
Josmund
It is a rule of thumb that if you can load the black SW sabots with out undue problem then the yellow ones are going to be to loose to shoot good. Get some Short Black Harvester sabots. Check your lugs and stock screws and try again. Lee
It is a rule of thumb that if you can load the black SW sabots with out undue problem then the yellow ones are going to be to loose to shoot good. Get some Short Black Harvester sabots. Check your lugs and stock screws and try again. Lee
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location:
Posts: 1,408
Thanks for the suggestions fellas.
Here is some additional information.
Rings and mounts are rock solid.
It's a synthetic stock.
The SW Sabots are the yellow ones which come with the standard package, however, I did have a few of the black ones which came with the gun. They may have shot better but I can't remember.
I tried to slide a thin piece of paper between the barrel and stock and it would only slide down an inch or so before becomming wedged. ( glad I didn't use money cause I had to tear it out )
The yellow sabots will only fit in a clean barrel and then very tight. The HPH 24's / Barnes 245 grn. MZ's slide down much easier but shoot no better.
Do I have a barrel / stock problem? If so, do I just unscrew the top screw a little or is there more involved?
I hunt Western KS so I'm trying for the best long range performance that's ethical and reasonable.
Thanks for your expertise and help!
Here is some additional information.
Rings and mounts are rock solid.
It's a synthetic stock.
The SW Sabots are the yellow ones which come with the standard package, however, I did have a few of the black ones which came with the gun. They may have shot better but I can't remember.
I tried to slide a thin piece of paper between the barrel and stock and it would only slide down an inch or so before becomming wedged. ( glad I didn't use money cause I had to tear it out )
The yellow sabots will only fit in a clean barrel and then very tight. The HPH 24's / Barnes 245 grn. MZ's slide down much easier but shoot no better.
Do I have a barrel / stock problem? If so, do I just unscrew the top screw a little or is there more involved?
I hunt Western KS so I'm trying for the best long range performance that's ethical and reasonable.
Thanks for your expertise and help!
However, you obviously have a stock issue. The forearm is making contact with the barrel and this CAN (not always does) cause issues. You can TRY messing with the action screws to see if you can get them tight while keeping the barrel away from the stock.
Otherwise, you could use a Dremel tool to slowly remove plastic at the binding spot until the barrel no longer makes contact.
#7
Typical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 986
Thanks for the suggestions fellas.
It's a synthetic stock.
.
I tried to slide a thin piece of paper between the barrel and stock and it would only slide down an inch or so before becomming wedged. ( glad I didn't use money cause I had to tear it out )
Do I have a barrel / stock problem? If so, do I just unscrew the top screw a little or is there more involved?
I hunt Western KS so I'm trying for the best long range performance that's ethical and reasonable.
Thanks for your expertise and help!
It's a synthetic stock.
.
I tried to slide a thin piece of paper between the barrel and stock and it would only slide down an inch or so before becomming wedged. ( glad I didn't use money cause I had to tear it out )
Do I have a barrel / stock problem? If so, do I just unscrew the top screw a little or is there more involved?
I hunt Western KS so I'm trying for the best long range performance that's ethical and reasonable.
Thanks for your expertise and help!
The T/C synthetic stock are known to be pretty flimsy. The contact at the barrel is a bad thing. I would recommend using some sandpaper or carefully using a dremel or rasp to make clearance down to the front locking lug. As recommended tightening the mounting screws is very important to do it exactly the same every time. If you really want to be set you should consider bedding the rifle in the stock and installing metal pillar inserts for the mounting screws as well as free floating the barrel. I plan to do that with mine since it has never settled down to really being consistent (nothing like my NEF Huntsman, White 97, White Ultramag, Knight Rolling block, CVA Optima Elite, T/C Hawken just to mention a few). When I first got the rifle the first ten or so shots were consistent then it started to drift all over the place. I was so disappointed I just put it in the safe and used the others I had available. Some are tack drivers as delivered but many are not. The trigger is also very difficult to work on without causing problems unless you are very careful. and do not change any of the angles.
#8
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kerrville, Tx. USA
Posts: 2,722
As mentioned, the crud ring can be an issue. If all else fails, you might pick up a bottle of BH 209 and see if that makes a difference (no swabbing between shots). You also might just try another scope. Do you have one that you know is good? You might have got a bad one.
#9
Fork Horn
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 330
I floated the barrel on my Omega with the synthetic stock. Just use some sand paper and keep checking for clearance with a dollar bill. After you have the barrel floated try a 250gr. shockwave with a Harvester short black sabot and 110 gr of 777. This should be a very accurate load in your omega. Most all Omegas, Encores, Endeavors and Triumphs shoot this load very well. You may have to tweak the powder charge a little but this should get you in the ball park. Good luck. Let us know if this works.