DrAsus

Ok guys, what yardage should I sight my Triumph/Omega in at?? I have the Nikoplex reticle. Ok, logically the gun can kill at 250 yards with 150 grs pellets and a 250 gr bullet/sabot---as Nikon markets this for their BDC reticle. Granted they have the proper hold over built in, but who says one can't do the same once they choose their desired powder load and bullet weight. I'm wanting to have a 300 yard ML. Unrealistic? I don't think so just because I plan to use a light weight bullet. I'm thinking of around a 200 gr...but may go sub-200. Before the all the hoop-la...let me just say my father killed a buck at 200 yards with a TC woods (no longer made, percussion cap model) with a $100 Bushnell scope he got form K-mart. So if he can kill at 200 yards (with in my opinion an inferior product/model to what I have) I think a 300 yard kill shot is definitely do-able as long as you know the trajectory of your bullet. My dad uses Hornady 180 gr bullets and I forget what brand sabots he uses. Oh, yea...that 200 yard shot was with only 2 pellets of powder---100grs!!! SO what I'm getting at, is there a "SWEET SPOT" that ya'll could point me in the direction in from tables of trajectorys or whatever. \

Now---it is a 138-142 yard shot where I hunt over a powerline. So for simplicistic sake, we;ll say 140 yards. That's what I will be looking to shoot where 2-3 deer have came out this past season. Granted, thy can and have come out CLOSER as well......but my particular longest range where I'm facing is the 140 yards. Ok, now behind me I have 200-the 300 yard shots. I'd hate to miss the "big one" because I have it sighted in for X and don't know how to compensate for Y. So what are ya'll thinking----150 yard zero? 100 yard and just document my drop at 150, 200, 250, 300??? Just as I'd hate for the one to get away at 300 yards, I don't want the one at 60-80 yards to get away either. Help---DrASUS

HuntAway

Here's my pet load for my Omega.
110 gr 2f T7

Load Data
~~~~~~~~~
Name: .451 Cal, Nosler Partition , 300 grn
Ballistic Coeff: 0.199
Bullet Weight: 300
Velocity: 1914
Target Distance: 170
Scope Height: 1.500
Temperature: 70
Altitude: 500
Ballistic Data
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Range Elevation Velocity Energy ETA Drop Max Y 10mph Wind Deflect
0 yds -1.50 in 1914 fps 2440 fpe 0.000 sec 0.00 in -1.50 in 0.00 in
25 yds 0.96 in 1825 fps 2219 fpe 0.040 sec 0.31 in -0.52 in 0.17 in
50 yds 2.75 in 1740 fps 2017 fpe 0.083 sec 1.28 in -0.27 in 0.74 in
75 yds 3.82 in 1658 fps 1831 fpe 0.127 sec 2.97 in 0.19 in 1.68 in
100 yds 4.10 in 1579 fps 1660 fpe 0.174 sec 5.45 in 0.86 in 2.95 in
125 yds 3.56 in 1502 fps 1502 fpe 0.222 sec 8.75 in 1.79 in 4.52 in
150 yds 2.02 in 1430 fps 1362 fpe 0.273 sec 13.06 in 3.02 in 6.63 in
175 yds -0.62 in 1363 fps 1237 fpe 0.327 sec 18.46 in 4.59 in 9.24 in
200 yds -4.43 in 1301 fps 1127 fpe 0.383 sec 25.03 in 6.54 in 12.28 in
225 yds -9.47 in 1243 fps 1028 fpe 0.442 sec 32.84 in 8.90 in 15.74 in
250 yds -15.96 in 1191 fps 944 fpe 0.504 sec 42.10 in 11.74 in 19.71 in
275 yds -23.99 in 1144 fps 872 fpe 0.568 sec 52.89 in 15.08 in 24.12 in
300 yds -33.69 in 1104 fps 812 fpe 0.635 sec 65.35 in 18.99 in 28.97 in
325 yds -45.17 in 1069 fps 761 fpe 0.704 sec 79.59 in 23.48 in 34.23 in
350 yds -58.51 in 1038 fps 717 fpe 0.775 sec 95.70 in 28.60 in 39.87 in
375 yds -73.83 in 1011 fps 680 fpe 0.848 sec 113.78 in 34.38 in 45.87 in

cayugad

If you set up your Nikon BDC with a 200 grain Shockwave at 100 yards, it should hold better to the longer distances. As for the close shots you could still make them. I thought the BDC went out to 200 yards or is it 250? After that you would just have to learn your drop. Also double check to make sure the other points are on. With the lighter bullet they might be 100, 160, 215, 270, etc. so your 300 yard shot might be able to be pulled off.

DrAsus

Cay-----I have the Nikoplex reticle (regular crosshairs). So I'd just have to know how much it drops at the longer distances.But I'm trying to figure out that perfect yard zero so i can be on on the close syuff as well as reach out and touch them---DrAsus

Chasam60

TC Omega Nikon 3x9x40 Nikoplex.260gr Nosler partition 105gr 777/3fg. +3"@100yds max PBR 173yds.

Chatlie

txhunter58

For all the newbys out there reading this post. Drasus may indeed be able to shoot his muzzy accurately and deadly at 300 yards, but that doesn't mean you or I can. He doesn't wan't to miss the opportunity at 300 yards. What if he is 400 yards?

My point is for the majority of us, a muzzleloader is not a 300 yard gun even with a scope and flat shooting bullets. IMO, there is probably only 1 of us in 100 that can ethically make that shot. So while I would "hate" to miss that opportunity at the "big un" at any distance, I will have to realize that I am not shooting a centerfire rifle and for me personally, 300 yards is too far.

Not telling anyone they can't/shouldn't shoot out to 300. It isjust that because you design a powder/bullet load that can, doesn't mean that most of us behind the trigger should. KnowYOUR limits. As we limit ourselves with older weapon, we should become better hunters and get close enough to KNOW we can make the shot every time.

DrAsus

Tx---I agree with your post. However, I think with the proper range time a lot of us could turn a ML into a long distance killing rifle. True 300 yards may be to far for some, but I think the range time will show them what their equipment can do in their hands. Maybe its only going from 150 to 200 yards.....but at least they are confident not only in their equipment but in their capabilities as well. I'm not saying that i'll be taking 300 yard shots all ML season either.....but I'm wanting to know that i can take the proper adjustments from the range time I plan on puttin in in the near future that I can take an ethical shot at that distance. Again the MAIN section that I hunt has a 138-142yard longest shot. I'm thinking of either a 125 or 150 yard zero--DrAsus

spaniel

Forget 180gr bullets, there are none out there with a high BC meaning you will have squat for energy at 300 yards.

Your best choices right now for a 300yd shot are a 200 or 300gr Shockwave (the 250 is the worst choice of the 3 weights, ballistically), perhaps a 240-260gr Dead Center, or a Barnes TMZ. A newer option is either the 265gr .430 or 325gr .458 Hornady FTX (flex-tip) that can be bought in bulk.

Whatever you use, drive it as hot as you can shoot tiny groups. If you can't shoot sub-1.5 inches at 100 yards, forget it and work up a different load.

It's one thing to find a load that has good ballistics to 300 yds (forget about thinking there is one out there requiring no hold-over, these are not centerfires). It's another to have a gun that shoots as well and repeatably as you need it to. And quite another to take the time and discipline to make sure you can shoot the way you need to -- FROM FIELD POSITIONS -- not from a bench. If you're going to shoot 300 yards, you'd better be on a bipod or in a blind with a table and bench setup.

And the one thing noone has mentioned yet -- WIND. Drop is easy, get a rangefinder and a chart based on proven drops at the range and you are good to go. But do you know how far a 5mph wind is going to drift a ML shot at 300 yds? Enough to be a problem, so you have to be able to gauge the wind and compensate for that too!

I've killed a few deer past 300 yards, all bang-flops. But I rarely bother shooting my ML at 100 yds, when I get range time it's all 300-400 yd shooting. Getting an accurate, flat-shooting load is only the first step.

BIG.PAUL

These guys are right there is no energy left in a bullet fired from a ML at 300 yards, The chances a person could make that shot at 300 yards are slim to NONE! IMO it is unethical to shot out that far, just because you can do it on the range does not mean it can be done at a live animal. It is people that do stuff like that, and take shots like that, that are the ones giving everyone else a bad name!

gleason.chapman

I sight all my Mler in for 3" high at 100 yards, that basically is dead on at about 165 with a Barnes Origonal, which has a BC of .291, but in reality is closer to .250 (which is the 300g SW BC), that puts you basically shooting thru a 6" pipe from 0 to about 200 yards. So that is what I would do, you would nearly perfect at 140 yards, which is yourusual shot. To get to 300 yard with a 300g bullet, you shoot 130 of Blackhorn or 150g of 777 and practice a lot (once per week for whole year), know where your 1st and 2nd circle hit, which is gonna be 250 for the 2nd circle down--my guess based on the chart. The 300g have plenty of energy for out to 250,at 300 yards your energy with the Barnes Orignalbullet is 1013, which is plenty to kill a deer or elk. Here is the result of running .250 BC, 2000 fps, 300g bullet and 165 yard zero (3" high at 100) in the ballistics program.

Barnes Origonal 300g with Black Crushed Rib sabot is what most long range shooter on the Savage Forum shoot, that bullet is a .458 bullet and we use a .452 Black Crushed Rib. MUST use shooting sticks and solid rest to get to 200 and beyond. 0 to 150 no problemwith almost any bullet on the market, 200 and beyond big problem with LOTs of practice and knowing absolutely where your gun will hit. Oh, optics, 3 to 9 is good out to 200, but beyond that must use a 4 to 14 scope. Another good bullet for 200 and beyond is 300g SW and275g Parker Ballistic Extreme, the Parker is the better bullet in my opinion.
Chap