Barrel rusting test
02-09-2009, 06:20 AM
#61
Dominant Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 21,193
RE: Barrel rusting test
When we were young and bought Hoppe's gun kits.. it came with the rod, Hoppe's #9 and Hoppe's Gun Oil, and patches. We'd get them kits back then for about four bucks. And the instructions were, scrub with the #9 and then protect your bore with the gun oil.
My concern is will the gun solvent actually prevent long term rust. After all it is a solvent not a oil. But if you're having good luck with it, I am the last person to tell you to change your habits. After all its your rifle. I would just add a coating of good gun oil after using the solvent.
I just read the back of my Hoppe's #9 bottle and it talks about cleaning the bore with the #9 solvent until you get a clean patch, then dry patch the solvent out, and finally protect the bore with Hoppe's Oil to prevent rust.
I grew up using Hoppe's. My mother screamed about the smell in the house, but we never let her bother us too much. I always kind of liked the smell. To me it meant guns...
My concern is will the gun solvent actually prevent long term rust. After all it is a solvent not a oil. But if you're having good luck with it, I am the last person to tell you to change your habits. After all its your rifle. I would just add a coating of good gun oil after using the solvent.
I just read the back of my Hoppe's #9 bottle and it talks about cleaning the bore with the #9 solvent until you get a clean patch, then dry patch the solvent out, and finally protect the bore with Hoppe's Oil to prevent rust.
I grew up using Hoppe's. My mother screamed about the smell in the house, but we never let her bother us too much. I always kind of liked the smell. To me it meant guns...
02-09-2009, 06:36 AM
#62
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,585
RE: Barrel rusting test
There are a number of solvents that have ammonia in them and that can accelerate rust the lead copper and plastic solvents often have acid in them and that's worse. It is a good idea to use something like alcohol or hat water after removing lead plastic etc. and then a good coat of a good gun oil. Personally I like Birchwood Casey Synthetic oil as it is very long lasting and has never thickened on me. Lee
02-09-2009, 07:07 AM
#63
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: PA.
Posts: 5,195
RE: Barrel rusting test
ORIGINAL: cayugad
When we were young and bought Hoppe's gun kits.. it came with the rod, Hoppe's #9 and Hoppe's Gun Oil, and patches. We'd get them kits back then for about four bucks. And the instructions were, scrub with the #9 and then protect your bore with the gun oil.
My concern is will the gun solvent actually prevent long term rust. After all it is a solvent not a oil. But if you're having good luck with it, I am the last person to tell you to change your habits. After all its your rifle. I would just add a coating of good gun oil after using the solvent.
I just read the back of my Hoppe's #9 bottle and it talks about cleaning the bore with the #9 solvent until you get a clean patch, then dry patch the solvent out, and finally protect the bore with Hoppe's Oil to prevent rust.
I grew up using Hoppe's. My mother screamed about the smell in the house, but we never let her bother us too much. I always kind of liked the smell. To me it meant guns...
When we were young and bought Hoppe's gun kits.. it came with the rod, Hoppe's #9 and Hoppe's Gun Oil, and patches. We'd get them kits back then for about four bucks. And the instructions were, scrub with the #9 and then protect your bore with the gun oil.
My concern is will the gun solvent actually prevent long term rust. After all it is a solvent not a oil. But if you're having good luck with it, I am the last person to tell you to change your habits. After all its your rifle. I would just add a coating of good gun oil after using the solvent.
I just read the back of my Hoppe's #9 bottle and it talks about cleaning the bore with the #9 solvent until you get a clean patch, then dry patch the solvent out, and finally protect the bore with Hoppe's Oil to prevent rust.
I grew up using Hoppe's. My mother screamed about the smell in the house, but we never let her bother us too much. I always kind of liked the smell. To me it meant guns...
02-09-2009, 07:11 AM
#64
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: PA.
Posts: 5,195
RE: Barrel rusting test
ORIGINAL: lemoyne
There are a number of solvents that have ammonia in them and that can accelerate rust the lead copper and plastic solvents often have acid in them and that's worse. It is a good idea to use something like alcohol or hat water after removing lead plastic etc. and then a good coat of a good gun oil. Personally I like Birchwood Casey Synthetic oil as it is very long lasting and has never thickened on me. Lee
There are a number of solvents that have ammonia in them and that can accelerate rust the lead copper and plastic solvents often have acid in them and that's worse. It is a good idea to use something like alcohol or hat water after removing lead plastic etc. and then a good coat of a good gun oil. Personally I like Birchwood Casey Synthetic oil as it is very long lasting and has never thickened on me. Lee
thats why i am interested in the WD-40 test, it really is not OIL but is being used a lot on the TRADITIONAL muzz forum,they SOAK the bore with WD-40after the hot water scrub/rinse, let it sit until barrel is cool then WIPE it out and use OIL next to store.
they said the WD-40 was best at getting water out of bore after taking bath.
02-09-2009, 07:22 AM
#65
Dominant Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 21,193
RE: Barrel rusting test
WD-40 Stands for... Water Displacement. That is what it was made to do. Displace Water and then there is an oil in there. That's why it will take the squeek out of a door for a week or two and water and rain does not bother it.
I used WD-40 a long time on guns for cleaning and storing,until I was using it at the firearms range and the range master told me to stop using it in my semi automatic handguns. He explained while it displaces water it attracts gunk.. dust, dirt, dandruff, etc. and it will slow the actions down. It does clean very well, and is a good thing to use to remove water. But I found that isopropyl alcohol will do the same thing. Its the same stuff you add to your gas tank in the winter to make sure any water in the lines don't freeze up and stall you out.
I used WD-40 a long time on guns for cleaning and storing,until I was using it at the firearms range and the range master told me to stop using it in my semi automatic handguns. He explained while it displaces water it attracts gunk.. dust, dirt, dandruff, etc. and it will slow the actions down. It does clean very well, and is a good thing to use to remove water. But I found that isopropyl alcohol will do the same thing. Its the same stuff you add to your gas tank in the winter to make sure any water in the lines don't freeze up and stall you out.
02-09-2009, 03:12 PM
#67
Dominant Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 21,193
RE: Barrel rusting test
bowtruck.. that is one I have not heard of. Now do you wipe the rifle down with anything first, and then apply a coat of vasoline?
I know a person that used Mobil #1 motor oil to protect his rifles. I have seen his guns and they are not rusted, but I have never used that either. Anyone else have some different things they might have used?
I know a person that used Mobil #1 motor oil to protect his rifles. I have seen his guns and they are not rusted, but I have never used that either. Anyone else have some different things they might have used?
02-09-2009, 04:16 PM
#68
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: PA.
Posts: 5,195
RE: Barrel rusting test
ORIGINAL: bowtruck
after cleaning guns and putting rem oil on them i always put vasoline on the outside my thinking is
it dont dry like oils anyone know anything about that
after cleaning guns and putting rem oil on them i always put vasoline on the outside my thinking is
it dont dry like oils anyone know anything about that
02-09-2009, 04:19 PM
#69
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: PA.
Posts: 5,195
RE: Barrel rusting test
ORIGINAL: cayugad
WD-40 Stands for... Water Displacement. That is what it was made to do. Displace Water and then there is an oil in there. That's why it will take the squeek out of a door for a week or two and water and rain does not bother it.
I used WD-40 a long time on guns for cleaning and storing,until I was using it at the firearms range and the range master told me to stop using it in my semi automatic handguns. He explained while it displaces water it attracts gunk.. dust, dirt, dandruff, etc. and it will slow the actions down. It does clean very well, and is a good thing to use to remove water. But I found that isopropyl alcohol will do the same thing. Its the same stuff you add to your gas tank in the winter to make sure any water in the lines don't freeze up and stall you out.
WD-40 Stands for... Water Displacement. That is what it was made to do. Displace Water and then there is an oil in there. That's why it will take the squeek out of a door for a week or two and water and rain does not bother it.
I used WD-40 a long time on guns for cleaning and storing,until I was using it at the firearms range and the range master told me to stop using it in my semi automatic handguns. He explained while it displaces water it attracts gunk.. dust, dirt, dandruff, etc. and it will slow the actions down. It does clean very well, and is a good thing to use to remove water. But I found that isopropyl alcohol will do the same thing. Its the same stuff you add to your gas tank in the winter to make sure any water in the lines don't freeze up and stall you out.
BREAKFREE CLP
02-09-2009, 04:41 PM
#70
Spike
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location:
Posts: 60
RE: Barrel rusting test
Regarding WD-40.
It is not a lubricant! If you read every word on the can you will not find the word "lubricant". The reason that it stops squeaks is that it partially dissolves any old dried up oil or caked grease; that is why it seems to be a lubricant.
BTW. WD-40 works great to dissolve the tenacious glue on most labels without harming the container under the label.
It is not a lubricant! If you read every word on the can you will not find the word "lubricant". The reason that it stops squeaks is that it partially dissolves any old dried up oil or caked grease; that is why it seems to be a lubricant.
BTW. WD-40 works great to dissolve the tenacious glue on most labels without harming the container under the label.