got impatient
12-03-2008, 05:48 AM
#1
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 413
got impatient
I was going to wait till spring but.... I went to cabelas and played with some. I came home and ordered a rem genesis. Seemed nice and after a rebate and a xmas sale it was 90 dollars. I figured I can't pass that up. I was wondering what loads you would recommend starting with. I would like to try a few. Chap recommended one. Looking for something light. Thanks, Brad
12-03-2008, 06:15 AM
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Illinois
Posts: 1,482
RE: got impatient
Sounds like a good buy! I don't have a Genesis, but if you're looking for a light load I would highly recommend trying a 10mm (.40 cal) 200 grain XTP paired with a .50/.40 sabot and anywhere from 75 - 95 grains of 777 or Pyrodex. The recoil should be very minimal, and the 200 grain XTP is a proven performer- I swear by it for deer hunting. If you can get it to group, this should be a very effective deer load out to 120 yards or so, maybe a little further.
12-03-2008, 08:56 AM
#4
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 12,762
RE: got impatient
Bowfisherman - both Cayugad and I shoot the same load out of our Genesis and it is the most accurate out of mine. This is a 430" 300 gr Hornady XTP with a green crush rib (50/44) sabot over 100 gr. of Pyrodex P. Here is my target shot at 100 yds a cpl months ago with the Genesis.
12-03-2008, 09:18 AM
#5
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 21,193
RE: got impatient
You are going to find that these Genesis really soak up recoil nice. A very comfortable rifle to shoot. And I agree.. 100 grains of Pyrodex Rs or Goex 3f and a .44 caliber 300 grain XTP in a crushed rib sabot. Amazing accuracy, low recoil, and it should be a deadly load.
12-03-2008, 09:33 AM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,445
RE: got impatient
I also have a Genesis that I just bought on sale at Cabela's. I like mine. I have not messed around with loads, just started with 100 gr Pyrodex RS and a Hornady FPB and got acceptable hunting accuracy. My groups (all 2 of them) were1" at 50 yds.FPBs are copper-jacketed, hollow-based, full-bore conicals that weigh 350 gr. No sabot is used. I've shot 2 deer with them so far and they have performed well for me.
Messing around on a ballistics calculator, and looking at load data from Hornady on their FPB bullet, I found that if you use 120 grains of powder you'll get about 1500 fps. Sight the gun to hit about 2" high at 50 and you'll have a 150 yd load. High point is at 75 yds I think, where it was 2.5" high. Zero was at 125, and it was 3.5 low at 150.
IfI were you I'd get me some FPBs for hunting. They are pricey though, so not a great choice for recreational shooting.
Messing around on a ballistics calculator, and looking at load data from Hornady on their FPB bullet, I found that if you use 120 grains of powder you'll get about 1500 fps. Sight the gun to hit about 2" high at 50 and you'll have a 150 yd load. High point is at 75 yds I think, where it was 2.5" high. Zero was at 125, and it was 3.5 low at 150.
IfI were you I'd get me some FPBs for hunting. They are pricey though, so not a great choice for recreational shooting.
12-03-2008, 03:14 PM
#7
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 413
RE: got impatient
Thanks guys. One more question. This is such a newbie question but is cleaning it much different than my other guns? Are there special solvents, lubes, brushes? I'm sure the manual will have this info but I want to be ready when it gets here.
12-03-2008, 03:34 PM
#8
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
RE: got impatient
bowfisherman
Here is an answer to email supplied by a lab tech @ Barnes Bullets... This was written in response to a centerfire gun but the thoughts still apply
Here is an answer to email supplied by a lab tech @ Barnes Bullets... This was written in response to a centerfire gun but the thoughts still apply
Thad Stevens
Ballistics Lab Manager
Barrel Break-In / Cleaning Procedure
It’s good to take a few hours to do a proper barrel break-in process. The barrel will be much easier to clean and it may help to hold accuracy longer between cleanings. The idea is to burnish away tooling marks and NOT to impregnate the steel with carbon initially. The following process is one that we use regularly and have success with.
1. Shoot one shot using a jacketed lead-core bullet (the gilding metal jacket material is harder than the pure copper X-bullet and will do a better job of burnishing the barrel during initial break in). Remove bolt and clean barrel thoroughly as detailed below. (Note: When cleaning a rifle, it’s best to have the muzzle angled downward and always use a bore guide. This ensures solvents, crud, and grime won’t drip/run through the action; gumming up the trigger and ruining the bedding. Also, one piece coated cleaning rods should be used.)
a. To clean the barrel, use the proper jag and a tight fitting patch soaked with CR-10 to remove the powder fouling. Use 2-4 patches and push each patch completely through the bore with one long stroke.
b. Install the proper size bronze bristled cleaning brush. Soak the brush with CR-10 before brushing. Brush should be stroked through the bore 10-20 times (brush must be pushed completely through the bore prior to reversing direction). Add CR-10 to the brush while it’s at the muzzle end of barrel half way through process. Clean the bronze brush once process is complete with a blast of crudbuster or something similar.
c. Next, remove all copper fouling. Use proper size jag and Barnes CR-10 soaked patches until no discoloration is left on the patches. The first two patches through the barrel after brushing should be pushed completely through the barrel in one long stroke. The remaining patches should be short stroked through the barrel a few inches at a time.
d. Run one dry patch inside the chamber, remove and discard.
e. Run two dry patches inside the bore, remove and discard.
f. Examine muzzle and throat area for any signs of copper fouling. If copper is still visible, repeat steps “b” through “e”.
g. Wipe any excess solvent from the muzzle and action area.
2. Lube the bolt lugs with a white lithium based grease and clean out the lug recesses. Also apply a small amount of grease to the bolt handle and cocking piece camming surfaces on the bolt.
a. Do this after each cleaning. There are great tool kits available from Sinclair and Midway for this purpose.
3. Repeat the cleaning process (Step 1, “a”-“g”) until 10 shots are fired, cleaning after each shot.
4. Shoot five sets of two-shot groups, cleaning after each two-shot group.
5. Shoot two five-shot groups, cleaning after each five-shot group.
6. Coat the bore with a light coat of oil (preferably not Teflon based) if gun is to be stored for some time prior to shooting.
Ballistics Lab Manager
Barrel Break-In / Cleaning Procedure
It’s good to take a few hours to do a proper barrel break-in process. The barrel will be much easier to clean and it may help to hold accuracy longer between cleanings. The idea is to burnish away tooling marks and NOT to impregnate the steel with carbon initially. The following process is one that we use regularly and have success with.
1. Shoot one shot using a jacketed lead-core bullet (the gilding metal jacket material is harder than the pure copper X-bullet and will do a better job of burnishing the barrel during initial break in). Remove bolt and clean barrel thoroughly as detailed below. (Note: When cleaning a rifle, it’s best to have the muzzle angled downward and always use a bore guide. This ensures solvents, crud, and grime won’t drip/run through the action; gumming up the trigger and ruining the bedding. Also, one piece coated cleaning rods should be used.)
a. To clean the barrel, use the proper jag and a tight fitting patch soaked with CR-10 to remove the powder fouling. Use 2-4 patches and push each patch completely through the bore with one long stroke.
b. Install the proper size bronze bristled cleaning brush. Soak the brush with CR-10 before brushing. Brush should be stroked through the bore 10-20 times (brush must be pushed completely through the bore prior to reversing direction). Add CR-10 to the brush while it’s at the muzzle end of barrel half way through process. Clean the bronze brush once process is complete with a blast of crudbuster or something similar.
c. Next, remove all copper fouling. Use proper size jag and Barnes CR-10 soaked patches until no discoloration is left on the patches. The first two patches through the barrel after brushing should be pushed completely through the barrel in one long stroke. The remaining patches should be short stroked through the barrel a few inches at a time.
d. Run one dry patch inside the chamber, remove and discard.
e. Run two dry patches inside the bore, remove and discard.
f. Examine muzzle and throat area for any signs of copper fouling. If copper is still visible, repeat steps “b” through “e”.
g. Wipe any excess solvent from the muzzle and action area.
2. Lube the bolt lugs with a white lithium based grease and clean out the lug recesses. Also apply a small amount of grease to the bolt handle and cocking piece camming surfaces on the bolt.
a. Do this after each cleaning. There are great tool kits available from Sinclair and Midway for this purpose.
3. Repeat the cleaning process (Step 1, “a”-“g”) until 10 shots are fired, cleaning after each shot.
4. Shoot five sets of two-shot groups, cleaning after each two-shot group.
5. Shoot two five-shot groups, cleaning after each five-shot group.
6. Coat the bore with a light coat of oil (preferably not Teflon based) if gun is to be stored for some time prior to shooting.
