Quick question
12-02-2008, 08:45 PM
#11
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
RE: Quick question
BigDaddy12t
I know Rem-0il was suggested and it is excellent on the outside - butI would not use it on the bore. Most barrel manufactures will tell you not to induce teflon into the bore. I would suggest any quality bore oil that does not contain additives such as teflon.
Birchwood Casey's Sheath/Barricade is an excellent bore treatment as well as others.
One of the newest on the market is Montana X-Treme's - Bore Conditioner. They even make a point to tell you no PTFE's in their product.
This comes from a technichian at Barnes Bullets. It might provide you with some additional information.
Might check this post out a bit also
http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=3193208&mpage=1&key=&#319320 8
I know Rem-0il was suggested and it is excellent on the outside - butI would not use it on the bore. Most barrel manufactures will tell you not to induce teflon into the bore. I would suggest any quality bore oil that does not contain additives such as teflon.
Birchwood Casey's Sheath/Barricade is an excellent bore treatment as well as others.
One of the newest on the market is Montana X-Treme's - Bore Conditioner. They even make a point to tell you no PTFE's in their product.
This comes from a technichian at Barnes Bullets. It might provide you with some additional information.
Thad Stevens
Ballistics Lab Manager
Barrel Break-In / Cleaning Procedure
It’s good to take a few hours to do a proper barrel break-in process. The barrel will be much easier to clean and it may help to hold accuracy longer between cleanings. The idea is to burnish away tooling marks and NOT to impregnate the steel with carbon initially. The following process is one that we use regularly and have success with.
1. Shoot one shot using a jacketed lead-core bullet (the gilding metal jacket material is harder than the pure copper X-bullet and will do a better job of burnishing the barrel during initial break in). Remove bolt and clean barrel thoroughly as detailed below. (Note: When cleaning a rifle, it’s best to have the muzzle angled downward and always use a bore guide. This ensures solvents, crud, and grime won’t drip/run through the action; gumming up the trigger and ruining the bedding. Also, one piece coated cleaning rods should be used.)
a. To clean the barrel, use the proper jag and a tight fitting patch soaked with CR-10 to remove the powder fouling. Use 2-4 patches and push each patch completely through the bore with one long stroke.
b. Install the proper size bronze bristled cleaning brush. Soak the brush with CR-10 before brushing. Brush should be stroked through the bore 10-20 times (brush must be pushed completely through the bore prior to reversing direction). Add CR-10 to the brush while it’s at the muzzle end of barrel half way through process. Clean the bronze brush once process is complete with a blast of crudbuster or something similar.
c. Next, remove all copper fouling. Use proper size jag and Barnes CR-10 soaked patches until no discoloration is left on the patches. The first two patches through the barrel after brushing should be pushed completely through the barrel in one long stroke. The remaining patches should be short stroked through the barrel a few inches at a time.
d. Run one dry patch inside the chamber, remove and discard.
e. Run two dry patches inside the bore, remove and discard.
f. Examine muzzle and throat area for any signs of copper fouling. If copper is still visible, repeat steps “b” through “e”.
g. Wipe any excess solvent from the muzzle and action area.
2. Lube the bolt lugs with a white lithium based grease and clean out the lug recesses. Also apply a small amount of grease to the bolt handle and cocking piece camming surfaces on the bolt.
a. Do this after each cleaning. There are great tool kits available from Sinclair and Midway for this purpose.
3. Repeat the cleaning process (Step 1, “a”-“g”) until 10 shots are fired, cleaning after each shot.
4. Shoot five sets of two-shot groups, cleaning after each two-shot group.
5. Shoot two five-shot groups, cleaning after each five-shot group.
6. Coat the bore with a light coat of oil (preferably not Teflon based) if gun is to be stored for some time prior to shooting.
Ballistics Lab Manager
Barrel Break-In / Cleaning Procedure
It’s good to take a few hours to do a proper barrel break-in process. The barrel will be much easier to clean and it may help to hold accuracy longer between cleanings. The idea is to burnish away tooling marks and NOT to impregnate the steel with carbon initially. The following process is one that we use regularly and have success with.
1. Shoot one shot using a jacketed lead-core bullet (the gilding metal jacket material is harder than the pure copper X-bullet and will do a better job of burnishing the barrel during initial break in). Remove bolt and clean barrel thoroughly as detailed below. (Note: When cleaning a rifle, it’s best to have the muzzle angled downward and always use a bore guide. This ensures solvents, crud, and grime won’t drip/run through the action; gumming up the trigger and ruining the bedding. Also, one piece coated cleaning rods should be used.)
a. To clean the barrel, use the proper jag and a tight fitting patch soaked with CR-10 to remove the powder fouling. Use 2-4 patches and push each patch completely through the bore with one long stroke.
b. Install the proper size bronze bristled cleaning brush. Soak the brush with CR-10 before brushing. Brush should be stroked through the bore 10-20 times (brush must be pushed completely through the bore prior to reversing direction). Add CR-10 to the brush while it’s at the muzzle end of barrel half way through process. Clean the bronze brush once process is complete with a blast of crudbuster or something similar.
c. Next, remove all copper fouling. Use proper size jag and Barnes CR-10 soaked patches until no discoloration is left on the patches. The first two patches through the barrel after brushing should be pushed completely through the barrel in one long stroke. The remaining patches should be short stroked through the barrel a few inches at a time.
d. Run one dry patch inside the chamber, remove and discard.
e. Run two dry patches inside the bore, remove and discard.
f. Examine muzzle and throat area for any signs of copper fouling. If copper is still visible, repeat steps “b” through “e”.
g. Wipe any excess solvent from the muzzle and action area.
2. Lube the bolt lugs with a white lithium based grease and clean out the lug recesses. Also apply a small amount of grease to the bolt handle and cocking piece camming surfaces on the bolt.
a. Do this after each cleaning. There are great tool kits available from Sinclair and Midway for this purpose.
3. Repeat the cleaning process (Step 1, “a”-“g”) until 10 shots are fired, cleaning after each shot.
4. Shoot five sets of two-shot groups, cleaning after each two-shot group.
5. Shoot two five-shot groups, cleaning after each five-shot group.
6. Coat the bore with a light coat of oil (preferably not Teflon based) if gun is to be stored for some time prior to shooting.
http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=3193208&mpage=1&key=&#319320 8
12-02-2008, 08:56 PM
#12
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
RE: Quick question
TNHagies
Actually, I do just the opposite, I store my sidelocks, muzzle up - that way a small amount of protective oil will drop into the breech area and into the flash channel to protect that area from rusting. I put a piece of leather leather around the nipple and the hammerdown on the nipple.What little oil there is will be collected by the leather collar around the nipple.
When Iget ready to shoot next -shoot a shot of compressed air through the nipple pop a few caps and all is cleared.
It is my feeling that after giving the hot bath treatment and stripping all the oil - the breech area & flash channel, which will now have flash rust in them can use the protection of a quality oil also.
Here is a pic of the leather collar...
Actually, I do just the opposite, I store my sidelocks, muzzle up - that way a small amount of protective oil will drop into the breech area and into the flash channel to protect that area from rusting. I put a piece of leather leather around the nipple and the hammerdown on the nipple.What little oil there is will be collected by the leather collar around the nipple.
When Iget ready to shoot next -shoot a shot of compressed air through the nipple pop a few caps and all is cleared.
It is my feeling that after giving the hot bath treatment and stripping all the oil - the breech area & flash channel, which will now have flash rust in them can use the protection of a quality oil also.
Here is a pic of the leather collar...
12-02-2008, 09:33 PM
#13
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,607
RE: Quick question
That's an intersting idea sabotloader. I tend to "over-treat" the bolster and flash channel area.I coat it down pretty good. I'll normally even drop a few drops down in the bolster and swab it around w/a cue-tip.That's where my concern with the excess sitting in there originates from. Many moons ago I remember having a goop of somekind sitting under the nippleof a caplockafter it sat a while. (wish I could remember which brand of oil that was as well)so since then that's how I've stored them. Your process obviously works as well. Sometimes we just get stuck in our ways I think-I know I'm guilty of that from tiem to time.
12-02-2008, 10:11 PM
#14
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
RE: Quick question
TNHagies
Oh gosh! - andI amguilty on that front!!! probably more often than from 'time to time' but I have an excuse - I am old and I am a swede....
Sometimes we just get stuck in our ways I think-I know I'm guilty of that from tiem to time.
12-03-2008, 05:11 AM
#15
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 12,762
RE: Quick question
That's a good idea TN - storing the traditionals muzzle down. That way you will have no puddling of oil in the breach. Not to say you use a lot of oil for storage. Only a light coating is necessary to block out moisture/air.
