spaniel

To make sure I understand you, you're saying they work like mil-dots in that theyvary with the power setting of the scope? So you have to use them at, say, the full power setting of the scope to be accurate to what they say they are but you can adjust this to your load a littlebit by reducing the power? Man, that sounds complicated to get right in the field but if it works it works...

I tried one of the Leatherwood scopes once, they have a cam systemin the base that tilts the scope to follow the trajectory. You dial a ring in front of your scope magnification setting to do this. It took a ton of shooting to get it calibrated to my gun, it worked OK from100 to about 350 yds until the scope finally died last year. In the meantime I'd gotten intolong range centerfire shooting and started using tactical scopes so that's what I replaced it with. Dialing elevation directly into the scope is the best of all worlds, but a good tactical scope is pretty pricey though you can make a$3003X9 Nikon Buckmaster do itOK. After switching to the tactical-style I don't think I would ever go to a BDC reticle, even in my 300WM I use 3 different loads for different purposes and it wouldn't match up.

HEAD0001

Yes that is exactly how it works. And yes it is a bit complicated. And yes it takes a bunch of time at the range. But once you have it figured out it is a breeze.

The reticle is not needed for shots under 100 yards, and if I am shooting past 100 yards then I take my time and make a god shot. I do not take rushed shots over 100 yrds, so the very little extra time it takes to dial to the proper magnification is very easy and fast to do.

If you are willing to take the time and expense then the B&C and the VH reticle is well worth it. But it is definitely not a quick fix. But it is very easy to use once you have it figured out. And it is no more complicated than adjusting a scope turret, and definitely faster than that. Tom.

spaniel

I take it that's 100% perfect every time?

I think the speed is all what you are used to. I have a drop chart taped to my stock. From the time I set my rangefinder down, the gun is ready to shoot in 5-10 seconds. I guess checking the chart is 1 extra step from what you do, but since I have it pretty much memorized I usually don't even have to look at it so I skip that step.

You know you are ready to shoot long whenthe necessary steps arehabit. I was looking at my elk antlers in the garage and thinking about that shooting sequence last night. I remember double-checking the drop chart after the second shot (hits it turned out but no reaction), but I do not recall checking it the first time when I dialed the range. I certainly don't remember either dialing the range or setting the side focus though I remember having to zero out both after I was done shooting. The only thing I recall clearly was having to fumble to level the bipod somewhat on the steep mountain since I live and practice on the flatlands -- in other words, I was practiced enough to do the important things by instinct/habit and only the odd things that I was not used to stuck out.

hunting junkie

what does it shoot at 150 yards ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,isn't the secound one at 150yards

MOEncore

I am confused here... you start shooting at 100 yards then jump right too 200 yards???

When I sighted in my gun I started at 50 meters then went to 75 then 100 and probably made 15-30 shots at eat distance... maybe more to get the best accuracy. When all was well. I then went to 125 then 150meters (not in the same day... 125 for me was a big jump). I spent a ton of time and a lot of powder and Sabots to get the load fine tuned. It would be pure luck if anyone could load and shoot and hit what their aiming for. The guys on here that can hit 4" groups at 200 yards with a Nikon Omega BDC scope are really good shots. I can hit the 12" paper target but its not in a 4" group. Now if your talking 125 meters... yes I can hit inside a 3" group or less... sometimes even better if there is no wind and if my eyes are up to it that day.If I go out to 150 meters I am confident inside a 5" - 7" grouping. Past that... for ME, the magnification of this scope just doesnt allow me with my old eyes to see the bullseye that well to hit more then just the target. Most of the competitions I shoot in at 100 meters... and in that range I am MONEY.

I know guys shoot there muzzleloaders from "mega" distances... well thats what I have read anyways and kill what they are shooting. But for me... shooting outside of 125... maybe 140 meters is my limit. I wont risk injuring an animal to do it. I dont see much bullet drop at these distances and I think velocity is still decent. The guy who said he killed the deer from 330 yards+ is one heck of a shot for sure. Even from a bench rest I dont think I could hit a deer from that range let alone kill it. I am just not that capable with this scope and especially with a muzzleloader.

I own a Encore and I have the Nikon BDC Scope. I agree about what the others say about the BDC circles... they are annoying and I wish I didnt have them. That being said, I have tricked out my gun with nearly every aftermarket gadget and gizmo in an atempt to make it shoot better. I feel I am a pretty good shot. Ive put well over 900 shots through my Encore now and feel I know it well. I have won several competitions that are put on in my area for Inline Muzzleloaders and thats against as many as 40 or 50 guys. I dont think there is anyone at my club that could kill from 330+ yards let alone hit inside 4 or 5 inches for 200 yards consistently. I am not saying it cant be done... guys on here say its not a problem for them. I applaud them for there abilities and I am not here to try to prove them wrong. I am working to strengthen my shooting especially since I shoot more old school now with open sites and with percussion and Flintlock rifles most of the time. I know my abilities with my guns... I think thats all you need to do is figure out what you and your gun are capable of. But dont jump from 100 directly to 200 yards in one leap, take your time.

I am just trying to give my own honest opinion here. There are some amazing guys that do incredible things with there guns. I am just a "plinker" who shoots on a regular basis and also goes out and hunts to put something on the table and every now and then I have gotten lucky.

spaniel

And that, my friend, is the key!!

I do all my load development at 100 yds for a ML (once I'm roughly zeroed of course). So far I have always been able to see what is the most accurate load without testing further out. I only start shooting further once I've arrived at the best load. Now centerfire is another story, I do most initial load development at 300 yds for that. As long as you have a 100 yd zero, a MV from a chronograph, and a very rough BC, you should be able to use an online ballistic calculator to get you on a standard target at 200 yds.

I did shoot competitively "back in the day" and am young enough that I have no eye issues to deal with, 20/10 vision with my contacts in. Having been originally trained as a scientist I also am very high on the "geek scale" when it comes to a technical hobby like shooting, I try to think of everything and account for it.

80% of it is trigger and body control, and knowing how to hold/position the gun with your body. If you can't control you, your gun, and your trigger pull well enough to shoot tiny groups at 100 they are only going to get bigger as you move out!