Hammer49

What is the procedure for removing the oil before shooting//hunting? Is it good enough to run a dry patch before loading? If not, do I run a dry patch, then wet (windex or something), and then a dry patch? Also, will the triple 7 rust the barrel before it is discharded? Another words, can I leave the gun loaded throughout the weekend and not get rust (assuming it was loaded on a squeaky clean barrel)? As always, thanks in advance!!!!

Hammer

bronko22000

Some guys use an alcohol/winshield mixture, others use Windex with amonia. My inline that I just got is the only one I'm going to try the gun oil in. All my traditonals get bore butter. But if it works in the inline, there is no reason it shouldn't work in the traditionals. I clean them and shoot them the same way.

sabotloader

Hammer49

Hammer I have been using T7 since it came out... When it first made it's appearance it was said to non-corrosive because it is a smokelss sugar based powder with smoke added. Today we know, course we always new it, an unprotected metal bore will rust and it will pit. We also no that the residue from fired T7 will speed up the corrosion. All or or both of these action are dependent on water being available.

Next, I know all the wise people say that you need to remove the oil from your bore before shooting sabots... they are self lubricating, but where I hunt and the conditions I hunt in - I always have a weee bit of oil on the bore - you can not get it all out anyway even with a alcohol patch. The bore should be relatively free of oils, helps reduce fouling also to get it out, but for me there will always be some there.. can get it out of the pores or all of it from behing the lands without a strip clean and boiling water.

My procedure is to run a couple of regular windex patches both sides then a couple of dry patches, I also blow compressed air through the BP plug to clear and dry it. Then I will shoot 3 caps or primers, then dry patch again... Your patch will not get stuck because the het from the primers has warmed the barrel and forced some oil out of the pores. Run 2 patches both sides. But my next step is not what you may want to hear, I then take a very lightly oiled, and I lightly oiled patch and run that throught the bore - both sides. Then a dry patch both sides. Then I load.

To give you an example... I shot my Omega on October 8 or 9th 3 times to check POI. I then ran 3 damp windex patches patches, the windex cleans and neutralizes T7 residue. Then a couple of dry patches, then a very slighly oiled patch - I make them especially for this project - I call them 'tweener' patches - their sole job is to protect the bore while hunting and between real cleanings - hence 'tweener' I then reloaded the gun for regular rifle season here in Idaho that started on 10/10... The gun was hunted with on and off for several weeks in good weather and bad weather... Finally after a really miserable day of rain and sleet on 11/7 I thought I would pull the load - to cheap to shoot a Nosler at nothing...

http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=3155800

If you check this thread you will see the results....

This is not a new thing for me - I have been doing this same procedure for several years now. Had I shot the gunduring the season and were to contiune to use the Omega the same procedure would have been repeated until the end of hunting season.... and I still do use BB, well not really I use T17 patches as one of my steps in final cleaning as a base - it severely reduces fouling - no 'crud ring' and very little fouling one windex patch at the range is good for 10/12 shots...

cayugad

An easy way to remove oil from the barrel.. get some isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) at Wal Mart. Lightly damped a patch and swab the bore of the rifle. This will take all the oil and dust out of the barrel. Then put a dry patch on the rifle. Swab the barrel with that. Then I like to put another dry patch on the jag and push that to the bottom of the breech. Now pop a 209 primer and pull the cloth. It should be burned and torn. It also makes sure the breech plug is clear. If it is go ahead and load.

Triple Se7en unfired will not rust the barrel. Now some people when they come in that night from a hunt and lets say they had no success so the rifle is still loaded.. they take a dry patch and swab down to the load. Rifles will have some condensation from time to time. Then they put a very light coat of oil on the patch and swab down to the load. The idea is not to put a lot of oil in the bore, just enough to remove any moisture and make sure there is some coating in the bore. The next morning a dry patch swab should pull that little bit of oil back out, and you should be good to go for hunting again.

Sabotloader who believes in Triple Se7en (as many of us do) leaves his rifles loaded for extended periods of time with little to no ill effects.

spaniel

All the barrel needs to protect it is a very thin film of oil. If you find that you have so much oil in your barrel that it hinders ignition, I would question how much oil you have in the barrel and suggest you use less to begin with.

If I am in a really anal mood I will run a dry patch down the barrel before loading. Honestly, I usually forget or am in a hurry to get out the door and do not do it. I have never had a problem with it.

The only problems I had were in a caplock, years ago when I was younger and less experienced, and I was over-oiling the bore as I eluded to above.

Gotbuck

I leave the oil in the guns. In fact I always take a wet patch and run it through then load the sabot as it helps in getting down the bore.I do not fire caps to clean the channel all I do is hold the gun up and if i see light through the breech hole I'm good. My guns shoot great on a clean bore and not a fowled bore. You are going to clean the gun after you hunt/shoot anyway so I do not see the need to remove the oil prior to shooting.

Semisane

Over oiling can be a problem, especially if the gun has a patent breech and is stored in a vertical position muzzle up/butt on the floor. The oil will collect in the patent breech and a dry patch on a bore size jag willnot reach it. This could result in a contaminated charge. You have to either get a dry patch into the patent breech section, or stand the gun muzzle down for an hour or two with the muzzle on a rag or folded up paper towel.

If you have a fully clean bore, putting a fairly snug patch on the jag and pumping it up and down rapidly in the bore will blow air in and out the flash hole with enough pressure to assure no oil or trash is blocking it. This is at least as effective as popping a cap. In fact, I believe it's more effective.

Gotbuck

That's why all of my guns are stored muzzle down. Great point Semi.

sabotloader

Semisane

But that is exactly why I do it that way 'butt down" - I know I am unconventional, but after strip cleaning I actually want that oil to run down into the bolster and be absdorded to a certain extent. When we clean or when I clean that is the only place that does not get oiled and protected especially in a storage situation. So for me that is added protection. It is no big deal to pop a couple of caps and burn that excess out of the nipple, bolster, & breech plug.

I do install a leather "washer" for a lack of a better term around the nipple and under the hammer - this allows the gun to breath and the leather collects the excess oil. This is for long term storage... if I am just going to shoot it again shortly - then a very light oil coat on the bore - muzzle down

SHulion

To get rid of the oil in my barrel before shooting: I swab with two dry patches using both sides, then I us an alcohol patch(both sides and then two more dry patches usind both sides. This may be over kill but I want to make sure all the oil and alcohol is out before I start shooting or hunting. I think most guys just use one alcohol patch and one dry patch. Andalways store my muzzleloader with the muzzle down to keep and excess oil from collecting in or around the breech plug. I just put a towell on the floor to keep the oil from getting on the carpet in my gun room.