nchawkeye

Looks like Cay, frontier and I are doing the same thing, just different methods...
Also looks like they type faster than I do!!!

gleason.chapman

I think you need to go up 12 clicks, shoot 3 more times. If you move in to 13 yards and shoot, if your dead on at 13 yard you will be dead on at 70. That works for me.
Chap Gleason

nchawkeye

Chap...You do know he has open sights on that thing don't you???

metaldonnieg

Set everything up exactly the same today, actually I didn't even move my "posts" or my table so I just slid my cardboard (with the same target still on it) back between the tomato stakes. I loaded up 80gr of Pyrodex and fired. I couldn't see a new hole so I walked up to the target and still nothing. I looked around and couldn't see where I might have hit the ground in a horrible miss so I just decided to do the exact same thing again. When I shot this time, I noticed one of the pre-existing holes from my 70gr group got a tad taller. I believe that's the first time I've ever knowingly and truthfully put a shot through the same hole haha.

So I decided that 80 performs the same as 70 more or less. I tried a group of 90gr and the holes were touching with the center of the groupabout an inch directly above the 70gr group.

Looks like 90gr is the way to go I suppose.

metaldonnieg

I did think about trying a 100gr group just for the heck of it but the fact that that's the highest recommended load for the Bobcat kind of made me a little less confident.

cayugad

In my .54 caliber Mountain Stalker which is the same as your Bobcat but sold through Bass Pro, I discovered it likes the heavier charges. I shoot 80 grains of Triple Se7en 2f, a wad, and a patched roundball. If you factor in the 15% difference in powder I am shooting an equivalent of about 90 grains of Pyrodex RS. The .54 caliber does accept more powder then the .50 caliber through. This load blows through deer with ease.

frontier gander

I'll have to try a wad in my deercreek. I tried 40 grains T7 and PRB but the patches would just burn up and the accuracy was crap. I'll have to buy some wads for the 45 and give it a try.

metaldonnieg

So I'm assuming the patch actually keeps the ball in the rifling and if the powder manages to burn that you lose that grip. A wad (what do you use a wad for?) would burn instead of the patch?

I've been finding patches that are pretty dang scorched but not burnt. I think I'm good, just a little curious.

frontier gander

patch is what grips the rifling and sets the ball to spinning. With out the patch, the ball fits somewhat loose and will tumble. The wad helps protect the patch from the flame and also increases the "pressure/engergy?" Not sure which word to use there lol. I'd buy some and give the wad a try. Doesnt sound like you need a wad withthe groups you're reporting. Having fun with the rifle?

cayugad

A scorched or black crud patch is not the end of the world. Even if the ends are frilled. What you need to look at is patches with holes in them, torn, or pieces missing. That normally means the patch can not support the pressure behind it. This can be cause by the patchbeing old as I have seen old patches blow apart. A poor lube will allow the ignition flame to blow them up as well. Triple Se7en produces more heat then other powders and this can account for blown patches. The wad between the powder and patch will protect the patch. I have shot some that the patch is in such pristine condition you could, and I have (for fun), use them again if you really wanted to. I make a lot of my wads out of wool felt using a hollow hole punch.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=3838

I then dip them in home made lube I have melted, or will smear them on the range. They protect the patch and help clean the barrel at the same time. In the White I shoot, I did purchase some fiber wads in .510 diameter and they work real good. I got them at TOTW.