Savage 10 ML
06-02-2007, 01:50 PM
#71
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hickory NC USA
Posts: 964
RE: Savage 10 ML
Way to go chap,I'm proud of you.
Now do you know the difference in the 2 bullets and sabots.
The bullets are the same just a different clored point but the sabots are different one is thicker than the other,If I don't have the numbers backwards the sst are mmp12's and the sw are mmp 24.But you said the sw were harder to get down the barrel.Randy wakeman said a couple years ago that hornady was going to start making their own sabots maybe they have.
Before the sw were thinner sabots thus easier to load and the sst were thicker harder to load.
I just picked up a new box of the sst and plan on shooting some next week will have to check it out.
Again thats a mighty fine group there.You are ready for 200 yds now.
Now do you know the difference in the 2 bullets and sabots.
The bullets are the same just a different clored point but the sabots are different one is thicker than the other,If I don't have the numbers backwards the sst are mmp12's and the sw are mmp 24.But you said the sw were harder to get down the barrel.Randy wakeman said a couple years ago that hornady was going to start making their own sabots maybe they have.
Before the sw were thinner sabots thus easier to load and the sst were thicker harder to load.
I just picked up a new box of the sst and plan on shooting some next week will have to check it out.
Again thats a mighty fine group there.You are ready for 200 yds now.
06-02-2007, 08:23 PM
#72
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,246
RE: Savage 10 ML
ORIGINAL: herman
Way to go chap,I'm proud of you.
Now do you know the difference in the 2 bullets and sabots.
The bullets are the same just a different clored point but the sabots are different one is thicker than the other,If I don't have the numbers backwards the sst are mmp12's and the sw are mmp 24.But you said the sw were harder to get down the barrel.Randy wakeman said a couple years ago that hornady was going to start making their own sabots maybe they have.
Before the sw were thinner sabots thus easier to load and the sst were thicker harder to load.
I just picked up a new box of the sst and plan on shooting some next week will have to check it out.
Again thats a mighty fine group there.You are ready for 200 yds now.
Way to go chap,I'm proud of you.
Now do you know the difference in the 2 bullets and sabots.
The bullets are the same just a different clored point but the sabots are different one is thicker than the other,If I don't have the numbers backwards the sst are mmp12's and the sw are mmp 24.But you said the sw were harder to get down the barrel.Randy wakeman said a couple years ago that hornady was going to start making their own sabots maybe they have.
Before the sw were thinner sabots thus easier to load and the sst were thicker harder to load.
I just picked up a new box of the sst and plan on shooting some next week will have to check it out.
Again thats a mighty fine group there.You are ready for 200 yds now.
Chap
06-02-2007, 08:34 PM
#73
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,246
RE: Savage 10 ML
ORIGINAL: Red Lion
Good job! I think that the extra heft that the savage gives you, versus a typical rifleand most ML's makes it easier to shoot tighter groups. Its a very good ML, so enjoy yourself.
Good job! I think that the extra heft that the savage gives you, versus a typical rifleand most ML's makes it easier to shoot tighter groups. Its a very good ML, so enjoy yourself.
06-03-2007, 01:33 AM
#74
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 6,921
RE: Savage 10 ML
Herman and the others have given yougood advice and it appears you are well onyour way already.
I clean my 10II with regular CF techinque/solvents in regards to the bore. Shooters Choice MC#7 to remove fouling (especially plastic), via patch/jag and bore brush. Finish the bore witha thin coat of light gun oil for protection and wipe down the entire rifle with rag and some light gun oil (my preference is BC sheath or barricade as they call it now but anything with rem oil constistency will work). I attend to the breech/vent after most range sessions as i typically will shoot 20-30 per. I place the breech and vent in a bottle of hoppe's 9, etcto sit while cleaning the rest of the rifle.I use a 5/32 drill bit to remove the carbon fouling(chucked in a T handle & hand twist the breech plug), 17 cal bore brush to insure the threads are clean in the plug, thenspray brake cleaner through both plug and vent holes to ensure carbon is removed. I then finish by tumble by hand in a rag with some light gun oil to ensure they are protected. Prior to returning to the range i run a dry patch up& down the bore to remove an excess oil.Also ensure the breech and vent are also not coated in oil by a quick tumble in a dry rag, then install with teflon tape (pink for the breech and white for the ventliner). I have used savage, RW and PR bullets ventliners in all honesty I didn't see any great advantages so I use PR vents now as they are readily available and cheapest. I change my ventliner when the orfice mics + .035" depending on the powder, charge, etc mileage varies but always hunt on a new vent just in case and save those that mic less then .035" for the range. To measure i use torch tips and keep the .032 to .037 ones in my savage toolbox for quick referencing (I colour coded them for identification purposes). I also have done the servicing of the breech via a torque screwdriver and ez tool, they work equally but i like the ez tool for range/hunting reasons and IMO it is money well spent if not wanting a 3rd opillar or bolt release mod.I ama tadanal when it comes to my equipment, so this maybe all for not
!
In responseto Randy's comments about 4759, he simply likes this powder the least but in my experience with a number of 10II's it is an excellent choice and the one we always start with and often end with as well. 4759 has been far more consistent then N110 IME - Randy's favorite savage "suggested' powder. I simply can't get N110 to out shoot 4759 in tin or plastic lot numbers and believe me at 80 dollars a jug I have tried too!!!![:@] I personally use 43.5 grs of 4759 with 250gr sst HPH24 sabot and 209w primers, the load avreage's sub moa producing 2300 fps MV and accounted for 4 deer from 50 to 219 yards. 3 dropped on the spot and the other made it a few yards on her nose. I experience excellent terminal performance on 3 shots- pass thrus and lungs in pieces. However 1 was a large bodied buck at just shy of 100 yards and allI had was a flush shoulder shot, the bullet seperated but managed enough to break the entire facing shoulder and send frags to the vitals and spinal cord producing a bang flop occurance. He twitched but by the time I reloaded and made my way to his position he was out. So with such a result I wouldn't suggest the 250sst for elk sized animals in the savage with smokeless velocities.
Ido know of 300 gr sst flung from savages that have produced 1 shot kills on elk and moose. I am right now working with 300gr sst for a deer to moose application. I have had success with the same 43.5 gr load of 4759 which produces an average MV in the 2100's, though H4198 has turned in some nice groups with 2300 flashing up on the chrony screen. Though recoil difference are noted
,but with apachmayr installed this offseason tolerable for me and my scope a Zeiss 3.5x10x44/Warne maxima rings and bases are also holding up just fine. I haven't gotten consistent results from any barnes bullets i have tried much like herman 100 to 200 yards was a stark difference, though my choices are limited up here in canada so take this with a grain of salt. XTP's with short MMP or trimmed HPH24's are my most used bullet but only used them for development for cost saving reasons alone. POI is different, especially at longer ranges but charge potential has shown itself. Having loggedalot of shotsthrough my savagedimes turn into dollars pretty quickly. I would have no problems using the 300 xtp for elk if my range was 200 and under. I have killed moose and black bear with it and subs with 1 shots and good results in other inlines. If looking for 1 load then I'd suggest something in 300 gr or barnes. I'd rather be overkill on deer then marginal on wapati!!
Congrats on your shooting,rifle and welcome to the smokeless addiction. It is a fun gun to shoot and learn, but anything but easy like many think
!
Good Luck
I clean my 10II with regular CF techinque/solvents in regards to the bore. Shooters Choice MC#7 to remove fouling (especially plastic), via patch/jag and bore brush. Finish the bore witha thin coat of light gun oil for protection and wipe down the entire rifle with rag and some light gun oil (my preference is BC sheath or barricade as they call it now but anything with rem oil constistency will work). I attend to the breech/vent after most range sessions as i typically will shoot 20-30 per. I place the breech and vent in a bottle of hoppe's 9, etcto sit while cleaning the rest of the rifle.I use a 5/32 drill bit to remove the carbon fouling(chucked in a T handle & hand twist the breech plug), 17 cal bore brush to insure the threads are clean in the plug, thenspray brake cleaner through both plug and vent holes to ensure carbon is removed. I then finish by tumble by hand in a rag with some light gun oil to ensure they are protected. Prior to returning to the range i run a dry patch up& down the bore to remove an excess oil.Also ensure the breech and vent are also not coated in oil by a quick tumble in a dry rag, then install with teflon tape (pink for the breech and white for the ventliner). I have used savage, RW and PR bullets ventliners in all honesty I didn't see any great advantages so I use PR vents now as they are readily available and cheapest. I change my ventliner when the orfice mics + .035" depending on the powder, charge, etc mileage varies but always hunt on a new vent just in case and save those that mic less then .035" for the range. To measure i use torch tips and keep the .032 to .037 ones in my savage toolbox for quick referencing (I colour coded them for identification purposes). I also have done the servicing of the breech via a torque screwdriver and ez tool, they work equally but i like the ez tool for range/hunting reasons and IMO it is money well spent if not wanting a 3rd opillar or bolt release mod.I ama tadanal when it comes to my equipment, so this maybe all for not
!In responseto Randy's comments about 4759, he simply likes this powder the least but in my experience with a number of 10II's it is an excellent choice and the one we always start with and often end with as well. 4759 has been far more consistent then N110 IME - Randy's favorite savage "suggested' powder. I simply can't get N110 to out shoot 4759 in tin or plastic lot numbers and believe me at 80 dollars a jug I have tried too!!!![:@] I personally use 43.5 grs of 4759 with 250gr sst HPH24 sabot and 209w primers, the load avreage's sub moa producing 2300 fps MV and accounted for 4 deer from 50 to 219 yards. 3 dropped on the spot and the other made it a few yards on her nose. I experience excellent terminal performance on 3 shots- pass thrus and lungs in pieces. However 1 was a large bodied buck at just shy of 100 yards and allI had was a flush shoulder shot, the bullet seperated but managed enough to break the entire facing shoulder and send frags to the vitals and spinal cord producing a bang flop occurance. He twitched but by the time I reloaded and made my way to his position he was out. So with such a result I wouldn't suggest the 250sst for elk sized animals in the savage with smokeless velocities.
Ido know of 300 gr sst flung from savages that have produced 1 shot kills on elk and moose. I am right now working with 300gr sst for a deer to moose application. I have had success with the same 43.5 gr load of 4759 which produces an average MV in the 2100's, though H4198 has turned in some nice groups with 2300 flashing up on the chrony screen. Though recoil difference are noted
,but with apachmayr installed this offseason tolerable for me and my scope a Zeiss 3.5x10x44/Warne maxima rings and bases are also holding up just fine. I haven't gotten consistent results from any barnes bullets i have tried much like herman 100 to 200 yards was a stark difference, though my choices are limited up here in canada so take this with a grain of salt. XTP's with short MMP or trimmed HPH24's are my most used bullet but only used them for development for cost saving reasons alone. POI is different, especially at longer ranges but charge potential has shown itself. Having loggedalot of shotsthrough my savagedimes turn into dollars pretty quickly. I would have no problems using the 300 xtp for elk if my range was 200 and under. I have killed moose and black bear with it and subs with 1 shots and good results in other inlines. If looking for 1 load then I'd suggest something in 300 gr or barnes. I'd rather be overkill on deer then marginal on wapati!!Congrats on your shooting,rifle and welcome to the smokeless addiction. It is a fun gun to shoot and learn, but anything but easy like many think
!Good Luck
06-03-2007, 07:45 AM
#75
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,246
RE: Savage 10 ML
ORIGINAL: skeeter 7MM
Herman and the others have given yougood advice and it appears you are well onyour way already.
I clean my 10II with regular CF techinque/solvents in regards to the bore. Shooters Choice MC#7 to remove fouling (especially plastic), via patch/jag and bore brush. Finish the bore witha thin coat of light gun oil for protection and wipe down the entire rifle with rag and some light gun oil (my preference is BC sheath or barricade as they call it now but anything with rem oil constistency will work). I attend to the breech/vent after most range sessions as i typically will shoot 20-30 per. I place the breech and vent in a bottle of hoppe's 9, etcto sit while cleaning the rest of the rifle.I use a 5/32 drill bit to remove the carbon fouling(chucked in a T handle & hand twist the breech plug), 17 cal bore brush to insure the threads are clean in the plug, thenspray brake cleaner through both plug and vent holes to ensure carbon is removed. I then finish by tumble by hand in a rag with some light gun oil to ensure they are protected. Prior to returning to the range i run a dry patch up& down the bore to remove an excess oil.Also ensure the breech and vent are also not coated in oil by a quick tumble in a dry rag, then install with teflon tape (pink for the breech and white for the ventliner). I have used savage, RW and PR bullets ventliners in all honesty I didn't see any great advantages so I use PR vents now as they are readily available and cheapest. I change my ventliner when the orfice mics + .035" depending on the powder, charge, etc mileage varies but always hunt on a new vent just in case and save those that mic less then .035" for the range. To measure i use torch tips and keep the .032 to .037 ones in my savage toolbox for quick referencing (I colour coded them for identification purposes). I also have done the servicing of the breech via a torque screwdriver and ez tool, they work equally but i like the ez tool for range/hunting reasons and IMO it is money well spent if not wanting a 3rd opillar or bolt release mod.I ama tadanal when it comes to my equipment, so this maybe all for not!
In responseto Randy's comments about 4759, he simply likes this powder the least but in my experience with a number of 10II's it is an excellent choice and the one we always start with and often end with as well. 4759 has been far more consistent then N110 IME - Randy's favorite savage "suggested' powder. I simply can't get N110 to out shoot 4759 in tin or plastic lot numbers and believe me at 80 dollars a jug I have tried too!!!![:@] I personally use 43.5 grs of 4759 with 250gr sst HPH24 sabot and 209w primers, the load avreage's sub moa producing 2300 fps MV and accounted for 4 deer from 50 to 219 yards. 3 dropped on the spot and the other made it a few yards on her nose. I experience excellent terminal performance on 3 shots- pass thrus and lungs in pieces. However 1 was a large bodied buck at just shy of 100 yards and allI had was a flush shoulder shot, the bullet seperated but managed enough to break the entire facing shoulder and send frags to the vitals and spinal cord producing a bang flop occurance. He twitched but by the time I reloaded and made my way to his position he was out. So with such a result I wouldn't suggest the 250sst for elk sized animals in the savage with smokeless velocities.
Ido know of 300 gr sst flung from savages that have produced 1 shot kills on elk and moose. I am right now working with 300gr sst for a deer to moose application. I have had success with the same 43.5 gr load of 4759 which produces an average MV in the 2100's, though H4198 has turned in some nice groups with 2300 flashing up on the chrony screen. Though recoil difference are noted,but with apachmayr installed this offseason tolerable for me and my scope a Zeiss 3.5x10x44/Warne maxima rings and bases are also holding up just fine. I haven't gotten consistent results from any barnes bullets i have tried much like herman 100 to 200 yards was a stark difference, though my choices are limited up here in canada so take this with a grain of salt. XTP's with short MMP or trimmed HPH24's are my most used bullet but only used them for development for cost saving reasons alone. POI is different, especially at longer ranges but charge potential has shown itself. Having loggedalot of shotsthrough my savagedimes turn into dollars pretty quickly. I would have no problems using the 300 xtp for elk if my range was 200 and under. I have killed moose and black bear with it and subs with 1 shots and good results in other inlines. If looking for 1 load then I'd suggest something in 300 gr or barnes. I'd rather be overkill on deer then marginal on wapati!!
Congrats on your shooting,rifle and welcome to the smokeless addiction. It is a fun gun to shoot and learn, but anything but easy like many think!
Good Luck
Herman and the others have given yougood advice and it appears you are well onyour way already.
I clean my 10II with regular CF techinque/solvents in regards to the bore. Shooters Choice MC#7 to remove fouling (especially plastic), via patch/jag and bore brush. Finish the bore witha thin coat of light gun oil for protection and wipe down the entire rifle with rag and some light gun oil (my preference is BC sheath or barricade as they call it now but anything with rem oil constistency will work). I attend to the breech/vent after most range sessions as i typically will shoot 20-30 per. I place the breech and vent in a bottle of hoppe's 9, etcto sit while cleaning the rest of the rifle.I use a 5/32 drill bit to remove the carbon fouling(chucked in a T handle & hand twist the breech plug), 17 cal bore brush to insure the threads are clean in the plug, thenspray brake cleaner through both plug and vent holes to ensure carbon is removed. I then finish by tumble by hand in a rag with some light gun oil to ensure they are protected. Prior to returning to the range i run a dry patch up& down the bore to remove an excess oil.Also ensure the breech and vent are also not coated in oil by a quick tumble in a dry rag, then install with teflon tape (pink for the breech and white for the ventliner). I have used savage, RW and PR bullets ventliners in all honesty I didn't see any great advantages so I use PR vents now as they are readily available and cheapest. I change my ventliner when the orfice mics + .035" depending on the powder, charge, etc mileage varies but always hunt on a new vent just in case and save those that mic less then .035" for the range. To measure i use torch tips and keep the .032 to .037 ones in my savage toolbox for quick referencing (I colour coded them for identification purposes). I also have done the servicing of the breech via a torque screwdriver and ez tool, they work equally but i like the ez tool for range/hunting reasons and IMO it is money well spent if not wanting a 3rd opillar or bolt release mod.I ama tadanal when it comes to my equipment, so this maybe all for not
!In responseto Randy's comments about 4759, he simply likes this powder the least but in my experience with a number of 10II's it is an excellent choice and the one we always start with and often end with as well. 4759 has been far more consistent then N110 IME - Randy's favorite savage "suggested' powder. I simply can't get N110 to out shoot 4759 in tin or plastic lot numbers and believe me at 80 dollars a jug I have tried too!!!![:@] I personally use 43.5 grs of 4759 with 250gr sst HPH24 sabot and 209w primers, the load avreage's sub moa producing 2300 fps MV and accounted for 4 deer from 50 to 219 yards. 3 dropped on the spot and the other made it a few yards on her nose. I experience excellent terminal performance on 3 shots- pass thrus and lungs in pieces. However 1 was a large bodied buck at just shy of 100 yards and allI had was a flush shoulder shot, the bullet seperated but managed enough to break the entire facing shoulder and send frags to the vitals and spinal cord producing a bang flop occurance. He twitched but by the time I reloaded and made my way to his position he was out. So with such a result I wouldn't suggest the 250sst for elk sized animals in the savage with smokeless velocities.
Ido know of 300 gr sst flung from savages that have produced 1 shot kills on elk and moose. I am right now working with 300gr sst for a deer to moose application. I have had success with the same 43.5 gr load of 4759 which produces an average MV in the 2100's, though H4198 has turned in some nice groups with 2300 flashing up on the chrony screen. Though recoil difference are noted
,but with apachmayr installed this offseason tolerable for me and my scope a Zeiss 3.5x10x44/Warne maxima rings and bases are also holding up just fine. I haven't gotten consistent results from any barnes bullets i have tried much like herman 100 to 200 yards was a stark difference, though my choices are limited up here in canada so take this with a grain of salt. XTP's with short MMP or trimmed HPH24's are my most used bullet but only used them for development for cost saving reasons alone. POI is different, especially at longer ranges but charge potential has shown itself. Having loggedalot of shotsthrough my savagedimes turn into dollars pretty quickly. I would have no problems using the 300 xtp for elk if my range was 200 and under. I have killed moose and black bear with it and subs with 1 shots and good results in other inlines. If looking for 1 load then I'd suggest something in 300 gr or barnes. I'd rather be overkill on deer then marginal on wapati!!Congrats on your shooting,rifle and welcome to the smokeless addiction. It is a fun gun to shoot and learn, but anything but easy like many think
!Good Luck
I have used the white tape in my guns before and don't see much advantage to it. The thicker pink kind was too thick, wouldn't go in easy.
Yes I need to get some of that 4759, seems like a lot of folks use that because it has more power.
Agree with you on the 300g bullets they do a good. I like the XTPs, for shooting/practice, my son usesthem for hunting, I use Noslers.I tend to stay at 300g with all my bullets. I will go as low a 285g with the Barnes TMZ but I like the extra 50g of weight, they tend to punch thru big bodied deer. Little avg size doe, they make a mess of but your not huntin' them, you have to be prepared for Big Boy. Thanks for your wisdom Skeeter, I appreciate your willingness to share expecially your long range terminal performance experience and the cleaning of the plug/vent liner.
The Savages are anything but easy, I think you can "be easy" to just shoot factory recommendations, clean the rifle at end of season and put it away with the CF rifles in your collection. But there is tremendious complexity in every turn with this gun for those of us who want accuracy and killing power. I want accuracy and killing power to 200 yards.
Chap Gleason
06-03-2007, 08:33 AM
#76
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hickory NC USA
Posts: 964
RE: Savage 10 ML
Skeeter,good post and good advice on cleaning the savage.The reason I don't use heavier bullets is because I don't need them for the size of deer here,but if I was hunting larger animals I would probably use heavier bullets too.Really a 185 gr and 200 gr will do the job on them here but cannot get the smaller bullets to shoot that good out of the savage.I use a nosler 185 out of a ruger,and 200gr out of a encore.The spitfires I tried in the savage were the 245 gr shot 2 three shot groups on different days that were one holers,went to 200 yds and they just really spread out.
Chap were are you located in Va,I hunted up there years ago a few years before my wife got sick(over 16 yrs ago) around lake moomaw,took lot of deer with a bow,rifle and muzzleloader,really wanted to get a bear with my bow but never did even see one even during the gun season.
Below is a couple pics of deer I shot with the savage year before last,killed a doe sat opening day,think it was 234 yds,cannot remember the exact yardages,monday shot the 10 pointer,170 yds,tuesday shot the eight pointer running across the power line at 100 yds,it went about 75 yds before pilling up,shot the 6 pointer about an hour later.This past year shot a 5 pointer at 160 yds,spike at 200 and spike at 230 yds.
Chap were are you located in Va,I hunted up there years ago a few years before my wife got sick(over 16 yrs ago) around lake moomaw,took lot of deer with a bow,rifle and muzzleloader,really wanted to get a bear with my bow but never did even see one even during the gun season.
Below is a couple pics of deer I shot with the savage year before last,killed a doe sat opening day,think it was 234 yds,cannot remember the exact yardages,monday shot the 10 pointer,170 yds,tuesday shot the eight pointer running across the power line at 100 yds,it went about 75 yds before pilling up,shot the 6 pointer about an hour later.This past year shot a 5 pointer at 160 yds,spike at 200 and spike at 230 yds.
06-03-2007, 12:51 PM
#77
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 6,921
RE: Savage 10 ML
What are PR vents
BTW your choice in powder my not be the most speediest but who'd argue with your results. I have got a little caught up in the chrony I admit more b/c of curiosity and wowing potential but I'd take 200 fps less and an iddy bitty group anyday over a erratic barn burner. 5744 is a bit iffy here in regards to availability and thus I have spent very little time with it, though I did notice its potential, light kiss back and fouling!!! 4759 is as common as bottled water and gets the savage to where it is intended in terms of performance, other eclipse this powder yet with less pressure and safely. Basically boils down to how much you want to invest, shoot and tinker, though I don't think any critter will ever know the velocity difference if its lungs have been deflated
!Enjoy
06-03-2007, 05:01 PM
#78
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,246
RE: Savage 10 ML
ORIGINAL: skeeter 7MM
I clean my 10II with regular CF techinque/solvents in regards to the bore. Shooters Choice MC#7 to remove fouling (especially plastic), via patch/jag and bore brush.
I simply can't get N110 to out shoot 4759 in tin or plastic lot numbers and believe me at 80 dollars a jug I have tried too!!!![:@]
I haven't gotten consistent results from any barnes bullets i have tried much like herman 100 to 200 yards was a stark difference, though my choices are limited up here in canada so take this with a grain of salt.
I would have no problems using the 300 xtp for elk if my range was 200 and under.
Congrats on your shooting,rifle and welcome to the smokeless addiction. It is a fun gun to shoot and learn, but anything but easy like many think!
Good Luck
I clean my 10II with regular CF techinque/solvents in regards to the bore. Shooters Choice MC#7 to remove fouling (especially plastic), via patch/jag and bore brush.
I simply can't get N110 to out shoot 4759 in tin or plastic lot numbers and believe me at 80 dollars a jug I have tried too!!!![:@]
I haven't gotten consistent results from any barnes bullets i have tried much like herman 100 to 200 yards was a stark difference, though my choices are limited up here in canada so take this with a grain of salt.
I would have no problems using the 300 xtp for elk if my range was 200 and under.
Congrats on your shooting,rifle and welcome to the smokeless addiction. It is a fun gun to shoot and learn, but anything but easy like many think
!Good Luck
Agree with you on the XTP, I am glad to learn that you consider them a 200 yard bullet, because I figured 150. I have to look at the ballistics. I downloaded that free balistics program(PointBlank v 1.8)and plan on working with it to get some good sight in for 100 yard, how high at 100 to be dead on at 200.
It is very interesting to shoot the Savage, because you basically limited to Sabots <= 300g and certain kinds of Smokeless powders.
Thanks for the info on the 4759. Is it $80 for a 1 lb can? If so that is 4 times the cost of the AA 5744. Now $80 for a 5 lb can is a very good price. I will look into that powder once I get to a place that I can buy it and if it is resonable. We are not exactly in ML heaven here in Norther Va. In fact it is downright hard to get stuff for ML except over the Internet. Chap Gleason
06-03-2007, 05:11 PM
#79
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,246
RE: Savage 10 ML
ORIGINAL: herman
Chap were are you located in Va,I hunted up there years ago a few years before my wife got sick(over 16 yrs ago) around lake moomaw,took lot of deer with a bow,rifle and muzzleloader,really wanted to get a bear with my bow but never did even see one even during the gun season.
Chap were are you located in Va,I hunted up there years ago a few years before my wife got sick(over 16 yrs ago) around lake moomaw,took lot of deer with a bow,rifle and muzzleloader,really wanted to get a bear with my bow but never did even see one even during the gun season.
06-03-2007, 05:27 PM
#80
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,246
RE: Savage 10 ML
ORIGINAL: skeeter 7MM
Chap, an aftermarket, suppose to be harder(last longer) then factory spec vents. PR stands for Precision Rifle (aka www.prbullet.com) company that markets this vent. Cost is $14 for 6 and being PR is only 1/2 a province away in Manitoba(Canada) it is a logistical choice as much as a cost per thing for me.
BTW your choice in powder my not be the most speediest but who'd argue with your results. I have got a little caught up in the chrony I admit more b/c of curiosity and wowing potential but I'd take 200 fps less and an iddy bitty group anyday over a erratic barn burner. 5744 is a bit iffy here in regards to availability and thus I have spent very little time with it, though I did notice its potential, light kiss back and fouling!!! 4759 is as common as bottled water and gets the savage to where it is intended in terms of performance, other eclipse this powder yet with less pressure and safely. Basically boils down to how much you want to invest, shoot and tinker, though I don't think any critter will ever know the velocity difference if its lungs have been deflated!
Enjoy
What are PR vents
BTW your choice in powder my not be the most speediest but who'd argue with your results. I have got a little caught up in the chrony I admit more b/c of curiosity and wowing potential but I'd take 200 fps less and an iddy bitty group anyday over a erratic barn burner. 5744 is a bit iffy here in regards to availability and thus I have spent very little time with it, though I did notice its potential, light kiss back and fouling!!! 4759 is as common as bottled water and gets the savage to where it is intended in terms of performance, other eclipse this powder yet with less pressure and safely. Basically boils down to how much you want to invest, shoot and tinker, though I don't think any critter will ever know the velocity difference if its lungs have been deflated
!Enjoy
As for the 5744, the only reason I started with that powder is Randy Wakeman's web site said it is "more forgiving" and some stay with it all the time.I didn't rally know what it ment, but figured it was a good starting powder. He also said "some stay with it". I may stay with it also given my holes with the TC ShockWaves, if I stay with that bullet. I am not convinced that the TC SWis the best bullet for elk, because of separation of jacket from bullet issues that I have read about, and the shooting test done into wet newspaper over on Doug's Message Board. However if I can only get 3" out of a Barnes, then I will go to the TC ShockWaves. However if the Barnes shoot 1.5" at 100 yards then I will go with the Barnes since I know they hold together on bigger game.That is my logic on bullet selection for Elk in Rifle Season using a ML in Colorado. If there are other 200 yard bullet out there I would like to know about them, and what I mean by 200 yard bullets is from Muzzle to 200 yards no more than 6" drop in bullet over that range.
Chap Gleason
Chap