copper fouling?...........................Oh wait I have a brass range rod.
#21
RE: copper fouling?...........................Oh wait I have a brass range rod.
cayugad
Well, that's new one evenUC didn't come up with that one, last week when Cdad and Matt were here they both tried to be real diplomatic and you know how dipp - lomatic Cdad is?
It really helps me... I am one of those old military type shooters that need to feel the cheek squeezed on the stock - I believe it hepls control accuracy and recoil. With out it I have to lift myhead just a bit to get on the scope correctly because the comb is not high enough. I get them at Sportsman's or Brownell's...
American abstractpainterfamous for mixing colors in strange patterns.
It really helps me... I am one of those old military type shooters that need to feel the cheek squeezed on the stock - I believe it hepls control accuracy and recoil. With out it I have to lift myhead just a bit to get on the scope correctly because the comb is not high enough. I get them at Sportsman's or Brownell's...
#24
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,092
RE: copper fouling?...........................Oh wait I have a brass range rod.
Checking in late here Savagescout, but of course I think you own a great looking rifle.
Trash those sabots.
Bullshop 460 or 500 grain sized to .504 or .5045
Overpowder wad (1/8" nitro cardWAD-510-Afrom TOTW is my choice)
80 grains of T7 FFg or 85 grains of Pyrodex P.
You could use the #11s no problem if you had a cap hammer - sounds like you have the primer hammer on there. Tom Lodge or Doc can fix you up with a cap hammer pretty reasonable. Or..... I doubt you ever use 209 primers in that rifle so kill the tit.
I'm pretty much ignoring any previous mention of myself in this thread.
Trash those sabots.
Bullshop 460 or 500 grain sized to .504 or .5045
Overpowder wad (1/8" nitro cardWAD-510-Afrom TOTW is my choice)
80 grains of T7 FFg or 85 grains of Pyrodex P.
You could use the #11s no problem if you had a cap hammer - sounds like you have the primer hammer on there. Tom Lodge or Doc can fix you up with a cap hammer pretty reasonable. Or..... I doubt you ever use 209 primers in that rifle so kill the tit.
I'm pretty much ignoring any previous mention of myself in this thread.
#25
RE: copper fouling?...........................Oh wait I have a brass range rod.
I went to white factory and picked up the #11 hammer that is what I wasshooting with and they stillwould stick to the nipple.
#26
RE: copper fouling?...........................Oh wait I have a brass range rod.
savagescout
I have never used the #11 nipple - just the 209 breech plug, but I can not imagine that they do not blow apart like on most every other gun.
But, even shooting the 209 I do have to pick it out also...
I have never used the #11 nipple - just the 209 breech plug, but I can not imagine that they do not blow apart like on most every other gun.
But, even shooting the 209 I do have to pick it out also...
#28
RE: copper fouling?...........................Oh wait I have a brass range rod.
I shoot RWS with a #11 striker and still from time to time have to dig out a slice of metal from the outside of the cap. It likes to slip under the breech plug. I keep a small screw drive on the shooting table for that reason. Granted it is not all the time, but it does happen. I have also had the striker when I cock it back, pull that metal with it, and then you do have a problem you have to dig that out or it will slow the striker down. Again, not all the time, but I do watch it.
#29
RE: copper fouling?...........................Oh wait I have a brass range rod.
UC that might be the problem I am using rem. 40% hotter. I used these same caps in my last white a .451 whitetail with no problems. What they did in my Ultramag was on the nipple after the shot was a perfectl little cover over the hole, and the rest of the cap was gondiee. So i just had to use a little pick and scrape it away.