Question on Omega Stock
01-08-2007, 04:27 PM
#21
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location:
Posts: 5,180
RE: Question on Omega Stock
i'll do that. I was just messing around with the x-150 and i went out to the shop and box some bearing shim, the brass sheet shim that you cut to size and put under a rod/main bearing if its to loose and so i cut some pieces out and cut them to fit in the stock where the barrel lugs so and just curious what you guys think about using this stuff to raise the barrel a little? i never had any issues with my poi changing but you guys keep talking about it so much that i wanted to give this a try. Hope to hear if may help, i hope i didnt cut my thumb open for nothing lol.
Okay i just finished up with the brass shim stuff. took a total of 3 pieces to lift it enough to get over this annoying piece that kept snagging the paper. The paper now slides downwith some resistance, right to the first lug. If it improves accuracy.. who knows. I need to get more bullets and try.
Okay i just finished up with the brass shim stuff. took a total of 3 pieces to lift it enough to get over this annoying piece that kept snagging the paper. The paper now slides downwith some resistance, right to the first lug. If it improves accuracy.. who knows. I need to get more bullets and try.
01-08-2007, 04:44 PM
#22
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
RE: Question on Omega Stock
FG
I know exactly what you are talking about... member I like Fords I have used it a lot of it in the old 292 - 312 Ford engines... (gotta stop the knocking rods)
That should work GREAT for a shim probably even better than my teflon shims - in fact I really like that idea... what thickness are you using... You know that would also make a perfect washer for under the heads of the stock screws - so they do not keep eaking out fiberglass from the stock as you tighten them - gotta go get some...
I know exactly what you are talking about... member I like Fords I have used it a lot of it in the old 292 - 312 Ford engines... (gotta stop the knocking rods)
That should work GREAT for a shim probably even better than my teflon shims - in fact I really like that idea... what thickness are you using... You know that would also make a perfect washer for under the heads of the stock screws - so they do not keep eaking out fiberglass from the stock as you tighten them - gotta go get some...
01-08-2007, 05:15 PM
#23
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location:
Posts: 5,180
RE: Question on Omega Stock
Im not sure of the thickness, i just used what i had left in the toolbox. Heres a pic of what it looks like. Any other ideas on what i could improve on? I'll be buying tru glow sights from cabelas to replace the plastic ones i put on it. Im interested in using the ghost ring, how do those work?
01-08-2007, 06:42 PM
#25
Fork Horn
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Saint Robert, MO
Posts: 496
RE: Question on Omega Stock
ORIGINAL: Pglasgow
My thoughts as well, Mike. I wish an Apex or Kodiak owner would post a pic of theirstock so that a visual comparison, as opposed to a verbal one on my part, could be evaluated by readers.
ORIGINAL: sabotloader
Pglasgow
Again if the pressure is equal on all bearing surfaces - that is the way I prefer it... but if pressure on the forearm of the stock cause the stock to flex and push with unequal pressure spots on the barrel - THAT IS A PROBLEM... of course with the laminate that doesn't happen the stock RIGID. With a lot of the cheaper synthetic stocks they flex way to much. You will realy see the results of this if you go target shooting lay the end of the forearm on a bag press your cheek down flex the stock or lean the tip of the forearm over a branch to take a long shot - POI changes. With the thick ML barrels this is less noticeable than in thin CF barrels but it is there...
Pglasgow
Again if the pressure is equal on all bearing surfaces - that is the way I prefer it... but if pressure on the forearm of the stock cause the stock to flex and push with unequal pressure spots on the barrel - THAT IS A PROBLEM... of course with the laminate that doesn't happen the stock RIGID. With a lot of the cheaper synthetic stocks they flex way to much. You will realy see the results of this if you go target shooting lay the end of the forearm on a bag press your cheek down flex the stock or lean the tip of the forearm over a branch to take a long shot - POI changes. With the thick ML barrels this is less noticeable than in thin CF barrels but it is there...
01-08-2007, 07:48 PM
#26
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
RE: Question on Omega Stock
MO Archer
Turn the gun upside down and support the barrel-action... Remove the ram-rod. Then loosen the lug screw closest to the muzzle... Try to think about using muscle memory... how tight was it? after loosing the front screw repeat the process at the screw at the rear - breech end. If you have a 3rd screw like some do lossen it last. After all screws are loose remove all screws - remove the action from the stock.
Assemble the same way supportbarreled action install stock then start all screws. tighten all screws until they about to seat in their respective places. Tighten the muzzle screw first and tighten to the muscle memory, the rear screw and finally the middle screw (if you have one)... Install the ram-rod... You are back and good to go...
Big thing in my mind - do not over tighten forcing the head of the screw down into the stock material...
There you go for what it is worth...
Turn the gun upside down and support the barrel-action... Remove the ram-rod. Then loosen the lug screw closest to the muzzle... Try to think about using muscle memory... how tight was it? after loosing the front screw repeat the process at the screw at the rear - breech end. If you have a 3rd screw like some do lossen it last. After all screws are loose remove all screws - remove the action from the stock.
Assemble the same way supportbarreled action install stock then start all screws. tighten all screws until they about to seat in their respective places. Tighten the muzzle screw first and tighten to the muscle memory, the rear screw and finally the middle screw (if you have one)... Install the ram-rod... You are back and good to go...
Big thing in my mind - do not over tighten forcing the head of the screw down into the stock material...
There you go for what it is worth...
01-08-2007, 08:19 PM
#27
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,470
RE: Question on Omega Stock
MO Archer,
Heres the way I look at. What if you find yourself needing to remove the barrel? Wouldn't it be wise to have them sighted to stock bedding you can duplicate? Worse case, you'll need to resight each rifle. Or maybe you won't. For the sake of science, would you? It would really be interesting for you to report on the POI changes, if any, from the factory tightened lugs screws.
My recommendation when you go back together is to tighten the muzzle lug screw using the short part of the allen wrench. Tighten till it feels like its pressing into your thumb a tightness you can easily remember and duplicate. Do the same with the breech lug. Every time you shoot remove them just to test your ability to duplicate and see if your POI's walk on you. When it gets close to hunting season don't mess with removing the barrelit so you knowprecisely where the POI is.
You don't have anything to lose if you like to go shoot your rifle. If you don't I could understand not wanting the expense of resighting. Up to you . . .
Heres the way I look at. What if you find yourself needing to remove the barrel? Wouldn't it be wise to have them sighted to stock bedding you can duplicate? Worse case, you'll need to resight each rifle. Or maybe you won't. For the sake of science, would you? It would really be interesting for you to report on the POI changes, if any, from the factory tightened lugs screws.
My recommendation when you go back together is to tighten the muzzle lug screw using the short part of the allen wrench. Tighten till it feels like its pressing into your thumb a tightness you can easily remember and duplicate. Do the same with the breech lug. Every time you shoot remove them just to test your ability to duplicate and see if your POI's walk on you. When it gets close to hunting season don't mess with removing the barrelit so you knowprecisely where the POI is.
You don't have anything to lose if you like to go shoot your rifle. If you don't I could understand not wanting the expense of resighting. Up to you . . .
01-08-2007, 08:43 PM
#28
Fork Horn
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Saint Robert, MO
Posts: 496
RE: Question on Omega Stock
Well here are the pictures of the inside of the T/C Omega Z5and the CVA Kodiak.
This is the Omega-
And here is the Kodiak-
Yes those arecracks in the Kodiak stock. They are only visible on the inside and not the outside, but it was rather alarming and disheartening to see these when I took apart. Good thing I did this experiment and I will be giving them a call in the morning to see about getting a replacement.
I would have to say that the Omega stock is definately made from thicker material where the Kodiak stock is made from lighter thinner material with the braces molded in.
This is the Omega-
And here is the Kodiak-
Yes those arecracks in the Kodiak stock. They are only visible on the inside and not the outside, but it was rather alarming and disheartening to see these when I took apart. Good thing I did this experiment and I will be giving them a call in the morning to see about getting a replacement.
I would have to say that the Omega stock is definately made from thicker material where the Kodiak stock is made from lighter thinner material with the braces molded in.
01-08-2007, 08:53 PM
#29
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,470
RE: Question on Omega Stock
ORIGINAL: MO Archer
Yes those arecracks in the Kodiak stock. They are only visible on the inside and not the outside, but it was rather alarming and disheartening to see these when I took apart. Good thing I did this experiment and I will be giving them a call in the morning to see about getting a replacement.
I would have to say that the Omega stock is definately made from thicker material where the Kodiak stock is made from lighter thinner material with the braces molded in.
Yes those arecracks in the Kodiak stock. They are only visible on the inside and not the outside, but it was rather alarming and disheartening to see these when I took apart. Good thing I did this experiment and I will be giving them a call in the morning to see about getting a replacement.
I would have to say that the Omega stock is definately made from thicker material where the Kodiak stock is made from lighter thinner material with the braces molded in.