AppalachianTracker

I removed the breach plug for a general cleaning and consequently was wondering if there is a tried and true method to verifying that the plugis in its original position?The gun I am cleaning is a Knight Wolverine .50 andany info is appreciated.

cayugad

(The way I do it) The breech plug should be moved all the way to the forward position in the Wolverine and then backed off about 1/4 turn. This way after shooting the plug comes out nice and easy. Also note, mine is a #11 cap system. So I have the breech plug and then a nipple that screws into the breech plug.

Triple Se7en

Yep, keep turning it until it stops - then turn one-quarter revolution counter-clockwise & leave it alone. It will never loosen from that point - but it sure makes it easier to remove when using hot primers and hot powders for lengthy range spells. Walmart sells the tube of Slick 50 One Grease in their automotive department. I'm about to try it because CVA changed their ML grease formula recently& it's not as easy to work with anymore. I'll know more about how wellthe Slick 50works in another week or-so. But according to users here, it'svery heat resistant, costeffective -- plus multi-purpose use.

Take that breechplug underneath your truck with you. Shoot three shots of grease into yourtruck ball joints - one shotonto the threads of your ML breechplug.

cayugad

Triple Se7en I see you noticed that "new and improved" forumla for the CVA as well. I am not impressed with it, the stuff stains about anything it comes in contact with and you have to take a bore solvent to remove the stain, it's watery, and I don't like it. I will be changing as well once this tube runs out...

Branson

I've never heard about loosening the breach plug 1/4 turn once it's completely tightened. It would've come in handy this weekend when I shot my first muzzleloader (Winchester x150 and I'm hooked). I'll be sure to loosen it before I shoot again. It took me a bit to get it loose.
-- B

cayugad

Branson - if you're on the target range, every ten shots or so, reach in there and twist that breech plug back and fourth a little. No need to remove it, just twist it back and fourth. You will find that at the end of the day the plug will turn right out with little problem... The same for when you're hunting. Don't crank that into the breech.

AppalachianTracker

Thanks, guys. I've reassembled the gun and will take it in the woods next week.

sabotloader

Branson

It is not often that I disagree with cayugas but this is one of those cases. The breech plug is designed to the seal the front of the breech plug with the lip inside the barrel at the end of the BP threads. If you obtain a seal here you do not have to worry about blow back getting back into the threads of you breech plug or the subsequent gas cutting that will occur over time.

I run my breech plug in till it stops then I snug it up against the barrel flange to squeeze (not to tight to cut the tape)the teflon tape - I do not use any grease at all. Since I started this procedure I have never had any type stuck brech plugs and I get no blow coming back into the threads. Learning how to seal a BP is important and I believe it is somewhat of a safety factor as we are now hearing about more Omega/Encore flash channels eroding away for gas cutting.






Here is an example of a breech plug done the the way I described...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/sabotloader/BreechPlug.jpg

cayugad

I have tried your system Sabotloader and have had no luck with it. I'm glad though it works for you. On my Knight Disc, I ended up in the shop with the barrel in a vice and me trying to tap the breech plug out real careful. One my CVA Staghorn the fit is so tight, that tape makes it feel like it is cross threading. Also I do tape the plug on the White and the Black Diamond XRand then still grease it, but when I take the plug out, the tape is usually totally destroyed....

sabotloader

cayugad

I am really sorry about your experiance with the Knight and I really do not understand how it would happen if the seal was achieved and not broken until you took the plug out. One of the things that I have done was to check the mating surfaces of the breech plug to the barrel flange by blackening the lip on the BP screwing it into the barrel then take it out ckeck the blackening - it should show contact all the way around the plug.

Often installing the plug will feel like you are cross-threading, when that happens I polish the BP plug threads and and the threads in the barrel with JB's - all thread cutting machines leave very sharp threads and burrs. After polishing you normally get a betterand smoother fit.

The thickness of the tape is important issue to solve - the Remingtons all use Pink tape. The A&H uses pink tape but you must turn the plug in your fingers and work the tape down into the threads before putting it in the barrel. The Omega requires one wrap of white tape and the threads of the BP and the barrel must be clean. The White uses pink and does not require any pressure on the tape before inserting it. I have never found a gun I could use the yellow tape on yet.

It sounds somewhat complicated, but I firmly believe in stopping blowback before it gets to the threads of the BP. After reading the documentation on Toby's accident whether he caused it on purpose or not... Gas cutting is/can be a problem. Most of the gas cutting from blowback you and I will never see. Doc White is aware of the problem and hardens his BP's to such a Rockwell number just to insure cutting is held to a minumum.

And when you get back to the basic premise each ML is different I guess you need to do what works for you.

Apparently we have both solved the BP problem each of us doing our own thing, I just have a hard time with the concept of loosing on purpose the breech plug - I know a lot of people do it but my mechanical background just will not let me do it...