danowak

I am new to muzzleloading. I just bought a .50 cal T/C Omega Z5 after doing a lot of research. In addition to the all-around good reports, including from people on this board, one of the reasons was the good reviews on lack of blowback on a mounted scope (I need a scope due to failing eyesight). It certainly lived up to expectations on that score. No residue on the scope at all. I started spit swabbing between every shot, but after awhile I decided to swab between every 3 shots and didn't notice any difference.

I used APP fffg powder, which I found to be pretty clean (which is why I used it) and 250gr T/C Shockwave saboted bullets. I found these bullets relatively easy to load, butat first I was not impressed with their accuracy. I was using 120gr of powder, and I couldn't get 3 shots in a 4 inch circle. Then I dropped down to 110gr of powder and my next 3 were within an inch. I was astounded that this difference in powder made such a difference. I don't know what the velocity differencewas, but I am guessing that for a 100-150 yard shot it won't be significant.

I also have some 300gr Hornady hollow points and some Dead Center 250 gr bullets that I will try out next time.I am wondering how much can I expect to have to fiddle with the charge for these different bullets, especially bullets of the same weight. Idon't mindthe fiddling, but I would prefer to spendmore timepracticing. Any suggestions?

All in all I liked the gun a lot.

cayugad

great shooting with your new rifle...

As for the other bullets they should be close, but then again the only way you will know for sure is to shoot them. I guess that's a price we pay for using muzzleloaders. They can be more temperamental at times.

Chasam60

danowak-I shoot the .250 SST which is the same bullet as the shockwave. My best load is 110gr 777/2f.Try the Dead centers at 100gr,which seems to be a good load for most pointy type bullets.Work up 5 or 10 grains at a time until groups start to open up.All MZ's are a little different. You will reach the point of diminishing returns as far as performance. Some bullets will fragment on impact when pushed too fast. Just have fun shooting and find the load that best suits you and yor rifle. Have fun,but be aware,this sport can be very addictive.

Charlie

lemoyne

danowak, I am shooting the same gun quite often this combination will shoot best at 100 or 110 with FFF if you want more velocity or range try FF or sticks.{i use 130 grAPP FF}You might also be interested to know that often the best shooting bullet and load in this hun and several others I have found out about is the50/40 200gr SW[my system one] a 1-28 twist Hawken GM barrel anda Thunderhawk a Black Diamond and a Knight own by friends.I use 140 APP FF or 3 sticks. Lee

AQUATECH

DANOWAK: I shoot a T/C Omega & I use the
APP powder, but in stick form. Mine will shoot the
250gr. shockwaves & the 300gr. Hornady XTP's
really well with 100gr. charge. Or 2-50gr. sticks,
but when I use a 150gr. charge my POI is all
over the place. But as others have posted loose
powder gives you the advantage of customizing
a load/bullet combination. Hope you enjoy your
ML.

gopherfan

I too had my first range session with a new T/C omega this weekend. Needless to say, it was a blast. I started with 250 shockwaves with 100 grains of 2f 777 and was happy with the results and progression of things. I've implemented Cayugad's 50/50 isopropol/windex every few rounds to keep things cleaned out and was impressed by the concoction.

The shockwaves came with the gun and my intention was to shoot 243gr barnes spitfire MZ's in this gun for deer season. WOW, were they a pain to push down the barrel. They fired nice and grouped well but if they are this difficult I might have to look into alternative sabots. I had researched this obstacle and was prepared for it but I'm curious as to whether or not it will get easier to push these sabots over time. If not, I'm looking for alternative options. Any thoughts?

gopherfan

cayugad

gopherfan... you're saying the Barnes were hard to load? What sabot were you using? I was trying to shoot sabots out of my CVA Stalker the other day and had to go to the Harvester Crushed Rib sabots and then everything clicked. I could not load the ones that came with the projectiles. If you have not tried the crushed rib sabots you might want to look into them. Sabotloader can really tune you into the right sabot for what you need. He really knows his stuff.

Good luck with your rifle.

AQUATECH

Gopherfan: I too shoot a T/C Omega. And I had
a time finding what bullet/sabot combination would
work. My bore was extremely tight. I had some
rough spots in the bore, I used some J-B bore
paste and a piece of scotchbrite pad to smooth
out the bore, also polishes too. After this I was
still having trouble. Untill I tried the Harvester
crushrib sabot. I can load 250gr. shockwaves &
my new favorite the 300gr. Hornady XTP's with
only a minute amount of pressure on the ram rod.
I also started shooting APP in 50gr. sticks &
accuracy got a lot better. I think these sabots
will work great for you too.
Good shooting & God Bless Danny

gopherfan

Cayudad & Aquatech- the barnes sabot I was using was a 245 Gr. Spit-Fire Boattail. (I think I called it a 243 in my original post). Yeah, I plan on trying a lot of different options and I've gotten some good feeback already. I liked the spitfires because of they way they are supposed to peel open and cause major damage. On the other hand, if I need a squeeky clean barrel to load one it's not really very practical. I'll look into the crushed rib sabots. Thanks a lot guys.

Any chance that this barrel will break in over time?

cayugad

Other then the ruff spots (if any and I doubt that since you have such a quality rifle) smoothing out, a barrel does not really break in as in wear down all that much except after a large amount of projectiles shot. I have yet to wear a black powder barrel out. At least not what I noticed. I think it is more of a combination of the shooter learning the barrel. They learn the feel of the slide of the sabot and how to swab the barrel in a more efficient manner. They just get used to it is what I am trying to say, and it all becomes easier. Although the right combination of things can sure make a difference.

Now you can "wear" a barrel down through a process of lapping but that is a thing I reserve for a rifle that will not shoot anymore due to a number of different reasons. You could take some J-B Bore Paste and a chunk of scotch brite scouring pad on a patch worm and work the barrel over with that. It is a great way of taking out the ruff spots and cleaning the grooves. I use it because if there is any lead, copper, or plastic fowling in the barrel it will remove that as well.

I think once you find the right sabot projectile combination you will be good to go.. Good luck with the rifle.