Pittsburghunter

I got to shoot my new rifle yesterday and I have some cleaning questions before I get down to the dirty deed.

I did pull the lock and plan on doing it every cleaning it comes off easy enough and you get all kinds of residue in there. Now with the barrel off and lock removed I noticed tons of residue all over the tang I can clean the stuff that is exposed but should I pull that off as well for cleaning or just now and again for a more thorogh cleaning? Also should I remove the vent liner when cleaning?

cayugad

I take the vent liner out when I clean my flintlocks, and then apply a little anti seize to the threads when I put it back. I also pull the lock and wipe the stock out real good with some Murphy's Oil soap and water (which you can use to flush the barrel free of fowling with,as well ). I do not pull the tang. I do clean the locking point on the tangwith Q-tips and solvent to make sure there is no fowling in there.

I actually have a brush and I take the whole lock to the kitchen sink and mix up dish water and soap, then scrub the thing all nice and clean. After that I spray it off with some brake cleaner and wipe it all dry. Use Q-tips on the back side and clean around the springs and such to make sure all the fowling is gone. Then I give the back side of the lock a spray of heavy duty automotive Silicone spray (NAPA and Wal Mart carries it and its cheap). After I have the barrel clean, I put the rifle back together and wipe it all down with Sheath...

Pittsburghunter

Thanks, I guessed about the same but I still think after every few range sessions I will end up pulling the tang as well. I always have had a problem with stuff I can't see My brain just sits there wondering what evil is being hidden by the wood.

roundball

Pitts, I'd like to offer a thought on that...your Renegade's tang is held on with only a couple of relatively small wood screws...removing and re-installing them multiple timeswill very probably wallow out that wood so their holding power is weakened...I have the same situation with my Hawkens of course and here's what I do:

While the barrel is soaking in a huge bucket of steaming hot soapy water,I hole the stock/tang area "upside down" over the bucket and using a toothbrush dipped into the bucket, scrub the tang blockwhere it gets blow back from the pan...then Iwalk it outside and power flush all around the tang area with aerosol WD-40...shake it off, then let it drain off while cleaning the barrel. (if you've got an air compressor that's even better but notnecessary of course)

Pittsburghunter

Is this the same Roundball as the guy from MLF? If it is thanks for the advive you have given on that site. You just made me go check the tang because on my other rifles one of the screws goes through the trigger assembly or that is the only screw. That leaves me with the delema you mentioned and I will curtail removal unless I actually detect rust.

On a side note I looked for real flint for the thing today and didn't find any so I guess it will be the internet to the rescue. I have two more shops to check out that are closed on Sundays but if they don't carry it it looks like DGW or The Gun Works will need to be called.

cayugad

http://www.octobercountry.com/ is where I get my Thomas Fuller Black English flints. I buy them in bulk and get a better deal that way...

roundball

Yes, the newer style tang/trigger guards have the through bolt for added strength to try and prevent the stock from cracking on the left side just above the lock bolt...since you had the old style flint lock asm, I figuredyou had the old style tang too.

October Country has always given me the best price buying bulk bags of Tom Fuller black English flints...be sure to specify the 3/4" (wide) x 7/8" (long)size...(NOT the 3/4" x 3/4")...tell them they were recommended bypeopleon an Internet muzzleloadingmessage board.

sabotloader

roundball

Well now! you and caugad have got me interested. October Country isalmost in my back yard, well up the road a fair piece to Coeur d' Alene, but I go up there quite often going to have to make it into the one of the normal toy stores that I stop at.

roundball

All mail order for me being in North Carolina, but did business withthe original owners (John & Linda)for about 4 years.

Then O.C. was just sold to new owners in the Fall of 2005...(coincidently, the new owners first name is also John).

Most suppliesthey carried could be found at other BP suppliers, except, they specialized in a couple things with excellent quality:
Powder horns: John make a beautiful little pocket priming horn for me;
Custom ramrods: Brass, stainless, etc, at regular ramrod prices;
And they were simplu outstanding people to do business with.

Don't really knowthe new owners, however, I did call inanother order for a couple more brass ramrodsand they turned out fine, smooth transaction.

sproulman

roundball, why do they rec.the 5/8 for the thompsonand you like the 3/4.