Preventing rust
12-04-2005, 11:04 AM
#1
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 1,800
Preventing rust
How do you all prevent rust? I am leaning away from bore butter. How about those rust prevention sprays and patches Bass Pro sells? Doese bore butter really season the barrel? When it seasons it how doese that help? The thing is it doese not say a thing about rust on the bore butter bottle. But those rust prevention oils PREVENT rust. Is that what I want? How do they both help with fouling at the shooting range to?
12-04-2005, 11:52 AM
#2
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Texas - BUT NOW in Madison County, NY
Posts: 6,270
RE: Preventing rust
It doesn't matter who sells it, use Birchwood-Casey SHEATH on all ferrous metal parts after you have ALL fouling totally removed!! This stuff absolutely prevents rust & corrosion, plus it dries to a dry film after the carrier solvent evaporates, so you can load and fire the rifle next day WITHOUT having to worry about any oil/grease killing your powder charge.
Bore Butter is an invitation to ruinous rusting!! I found this out the hard way!
"Seasoning" is for cast-iron cookware! Back in the days when rifle barrels were made from porous, soft iron like an iron skillet is made today, seasoning MIGHT have worked. IMO, it is total BS today with modern steel rifle barrels! (Tried it, per Ross Seyfried's instructions - it did NOT work as advertised in ANY of the five guns I tried it in!!)
Bore Butter is an invitation to ruinous rusting!! I found this out the hard way!
"Seasoning" is for cast-iron cookware! Back in the days when rifle barrels were made from porous, soft iron like an iron skillet is made today, seasoning MIGHT have worked. IMO, it is total BS today with modern steel rifle barrels! (Tried it, per Ross Seyfried's instructions - it did NOT work as advertised in ANY of the five guns I tried it in!!)
12-04-2005, 12:09 PM
#3
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
RE: Preventing rust
pse-archer
Rust is a cancer - you really never know who is going to get it - but, you can do a lot to prevent it. Rust, while it does it and if does happen to you it may not be the end of the world nor the end of your gun.
Concerning rust in the bore - get your bore dry - keep it dry and treat it with a rust preventor. Bore Butter - Wonderlube,and Others are rust inhibitors. As it says on the packages - Rust Inhibitor.
You can season iron, trying to season steel is another matter.
My thoughts: Bore Butter, is a great product but it must be used correctly, well at least what I think is correct. It may not season a steel bore but it DOES reduce fowling both plastic and powder. I use it in every one of my ML's both inlines and sidelocks, and as of a few years ago even in my trap guns and chokes - especially the chokes which are really laden with plastic fouling after 5/6 rounds at the trap club.
To aid in the prevention of rust DO use a quality bore oil, and goodness knows there is a ton of them out there. The real key for me is STORAGE of the ML for a long period of time. To store a gun I make certain the bore is DRY and has been dry for several days. I will then liberally oil the bore. On the sidelocks I install a small piece of leather with hole in it around the nipple and close the hammer on it - then place it it in storage, gun sock and gun cabinet. The inlines same procedure or in case of a 209 nipple a samll piece of leather between the nipple and the face of the bolt. (over time the leather absorbs the excess oil that runs down the riflings into the nipple.
I am assuming you were more concerned with rust in the bore than rust on the exterior. Rust on the exterior is much easier to handle.
Back to the statement about "not being the end of your gun." Several years ago I purchsed a Renegade off E-bay, the price was great and the descrition of the condition of the barrel sounded ok and for $25 how could you go wrong? Well when I got the barrel looked at the bore it was BAD and it still bad. Well I cleaned it up as best I could and I continue to work on it - but the darn thing shoots great - it is terribly accurate, even out to 150 yards. Talking to some old timers - rust was not an uncommon thing in the old days and they just kept on shooting them. When they got bad enough the would just have them rebored to the next caliber up.
Just so I do not leave you wondering here is a copy of what I have said in the past....
Good luck hope some of this helps sorry for the length...
Rust is a cancer - you really never know who is going to get it - but, you can do a lot to prevent it. Rust, while it does it and if does happen to you it may not be the end of the world nor the end of your gun.
Concerning rust in the bore - get your bore dry - keep it dry and treat it with a rust preventor. Bore Butter - Wonderlube,and Others are rust inhibitors. As it says on the packages - Rust Inhibitor.
You can season iron, trying to season steel is another matter.
My thoughts: Bore Butter, is a great product but it must be used correctly, well at least what I think is correct. It may not season a steel bore but it DOES reduce fowling both plastic and powder. I use it in every one of my ML's both inlines and sidelocks, and as of a few years ago even in my trap guns and chokes - especially the chokes which are really laden with plastic fouling after 5/6 rounds at the trap club.
To aid in the prevention of rust DO use a quality bore oil, and goodness knows there is a ton of them out there. The real key for me is STORAGE of the ML for a long period of time. To store a gun I make certain the bore is DRY and has been dry for several days. I will then liberally oil the bore. On the sidelocks I install a small piece of leather with hole in it around the nipple and close the hammer on it - then place it it in storage, gun sock and gun cabinet. The inlines same procedure or in case of a 209 nipple a samll piece of leather between the nipple and the face of the bolt. (over time the leather absorbs the excess oil that runs down the riflings into the nipple.
I am assuming you were more concerned with rust in the bore than rust on the exterior. Rust on the exterior is much easier to handle.
Back to the statement about "not being the end of your gun." Several years ago I purchsed a Renegade off E-bay, the price was great and the descrition of the condition of the barrel sounded ok and for $25 how could you go wrong? Well when I got the barrel looked at the bore it was BAD and it still bad. Well I cleaned it up as best I could and I continue to work on it - but the darn thing shoots great - it is terribly accurate, even out to 150 yards. Talking to some old timers - rust was not an uncommon thing in the old days and they just kept on shooting them. When they got bad enough the would just have them rebored to the next caliber up.
Just so I do not leave you wondering here is a copy of what I have said in the past....
Barrel Care: this is really a hot topic with a ton of different thoughts - you will develope your own care plan over time.
The use of Bore Butter - I really believe it is a good product but I also beleive there is right way and a wrong way to use it in modern day ML's not using real Black Powder.
I almost hate to mention this because it is going to start up a huge discussion again.... I shoot sabots exclusivly in 6 different ML guns and 4 different shot guns - 2 of them high quality trap guns. I do not get plastic fouling in any of the ML's and I now can also say I have reduced the plastic fouling in my shotgun chokes drastically. OK here is the dirty word "bore butter"
I believe if it is applied in what I think is the correct method it really reduces fouling.... Example if you have a shot gun with screw chokes after you have shot several rounds through the choke take the choke out and look at it. It will black and streaky with plasic fouling - put a little BB on your finger and rub it around in the choke - you will really be surprised at what happens to the plastic fouling.
My feelings are "how the bore butter is applied is the real key" - It should not be caked inside the barrel or added to the sabots as a lubricant, nor should it be used as a spitpatch.
The ONLY time I use BB is in a HOT barrel after cleaning and when the the barrel is dry. Apply BB to a cotton bore swab and run it down the barrel, the hotter the barrel the better, because the pores are wide open. When you pull the bore swab out you will not belive what has happen, the pores in the barrel will litterally suck up the BB completely remove it from your brush. I do this a couple of times - then while the barrel is still warm dry patch it with a clean patch and get as much of the loose BB out as you can. After it has cooled re-pete the patch process. The only BB that reamins will be in the pores and a small amount trapped behind the lands.Your first shot will remove that also. The final step is to apply a light of coat of quality gun oil. What you have now is a clean and smooth barrel, I really would not use the words "a seasoned barrel" because it is not... what it is a smooth bore less prone to cause fricton.This coating last for several rounds releasing a bit each time it is fired.
Lots of people are going to disagree but that is what 6 years of experiance has shown me and others. It is all in how you APPLY IT.
Another thing I do not battle and I think it is again becuse of BB - I do not get the "crud ring" in any of my ML's and I use t7 loose powder with 209 ignition.
Now, all of this is my opinion and your results may not be the same - BUT don't shoot the messenger - the non BB folks are a lot more vocal than the bb users.
The use of Bore Butter - I really believe it is a good product but I also beleive there is right way and a wrong way to use it in modern day ML's not using real Black Powder.
I almost hate to mention this because it is going to start up a huge discussion again.... I shoot sabots exclusivly in 6 different ML guns and 4 different shot guns - 2 of them high quality trap guns. I do not get plastic fouling in any of the ML's and I now can also say I have reduced the plastic fouling in my shotgun chokes drastically. OK here is the dirty word "bore butter"
I believe if it is applied in what I think is the correct method it really reduces fouling.... Example if you have a shot gun with screw chokes after you have shot several rounds through the choke take the choke out and look at it. It will black and streaky with plasic fouling - put a little BB on your finger and rub it around in the choke - you will really be surprised at what happens to the plastic fouling.
My feelings are "how the bore butter is applied is the real key" - It should not be caked inside the barrel or added to the sabots as a lubricant, nor should it be used as a spitpatch.
The ONLY time I use BB is in a HOT barrel after cleaning and when the the barrel is dry. Apply BB to a cotton bore swab and run it down the barrel, the hotter the barrel the better, because the pores are wide open. When you pull the bore swab out you will not belive what has happen, the pores in the barrel will litterally suck up the BB completely remove it from your brush. I do this a couple of times - then while the barrel is still warm dry patch it with a clean patch and get as much of the loose BB out as you can. After it has cooled re-pete the patch process. The only BB that reamins will be in the pores and a small amount trapped behind the lands.Your first shot will remove that also. The final step is to apply a light of coat of quality gun oil. What you have now is a clean and smooth barrel, I really would not use the words "a seasoned barrel" because it is not... what it is a smooth bore less prone to cause fricton.This coating last for several rounds releasing a bit each time it is fired.
Lots of people are going to disagree but that is what 6 years of experiance has shown me and others. It is all in how you APPLY IT.
Another thing I do not battle and I think it is again becuse of BB - I do not get the "crud ring" in any of my ML's and I use t7 loose powder with 209 ignition.
Now, all of this is my opinion and your results may not be the same - BUT don't shoot the messenger - the non BB folks are a lot more vocal than the bb users.
12-04-2005, 06:55 PM
#6
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 21,193
RE: Preventing rust
I would just keep using the bore butter because i find it makes a great rust protector.
12-04-2005, 07:25 PM
#8
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,922
RE: Preventing rust
ORIGINAL: lonewolf5347
Give Knight teflone patches a shot they work great,I never had any problems with any of my m/l using this product
Give Knight teflone patches a shot they work great,I never had any problems with any of my m/l using this product
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