NVMIKE

What steps do you use for load developement, do you swab your barrel...each shot, each group? Do you pull the breech plug when you swab, or just run a few patchs on a jag? Dry patches?solvent patches? other patches(alcohol?) lube the sabot?dry sabot? some dry some lubed depending on the brand? I know consistency is always key, but there must be some basic steps that are a must, even if the method of that step can vary. thanks for any and all replies.

SuperMagnum

I don't really follow any specific steps. When I try out loads I just put in the certain load then just swab it with a wet patch then dry then wet then 2 dry patches after each shot for a 5 shot group. This is probably more work than it's worth as I've took deer with only one shot so far and just completely cleaned the gun out when I got home. You don't have to pull the plug, just run a wet then dry then wet then dry patch thru the barrel and u should be fine. I know some people like to foul up their barrels then shoot their groups after 2 or 3 or so shots but I usually swab mine after every shot so it has the same point of impact. I don't lube my sabots at all, acutally it is not recommended for sabots although it is quite a bit harder to load that way but it still shoots alot better though.

skeeter 7MM

I swab each shot using 50/50 solution of windex and alcohol. I usually run a wet patch followed by a couple of dry patchs. I use a range rod with a jag so I clean directly following the shot and use the field ramrod to load the ML. I mark my ram rod with a piece of tape to ensure I am seating to the same spot each time I work with new loads. When determining the charge I move in 5 gr increments then document any changes to find what charge will give me both accuracy and trajectory I require for my hunting situation. The same can be said with choosing the bullet,I work through the charges and document the results when starting fresh. However since I have been doing it for a few years I usually have a start pointto see how it fair to my hunting needs, which saves time. I have never lubed my sabots. I check my breech plug every 10 shots or so due to using 777. Once I have found loads of interest I clean the gun thoroughly and return to the range for a cold barrel cleanshot. I will also follow up with 2nd and 3rd shot without cleaning between to see how it affects POI.I also like to shoot in a variety of conditions (warm, cool, cold, wet).Main goal isto simulate what may happen when I take to the fieldduring hunting season.

PS: I always change only one component at a time so I can determine what the effects are at each stage more clearly of the changesI have implemented.

Longbow Bowhunter

For myself, I shoot Blackpowder not any substitutes, is one choose a bullet or couple weights of bullets that match the rate of twist in my gun. Then I shoot two shots and clean adjusting powder charge and/or bullet as required. After initial at 50 yards, then all shooting afterwards is at a 100 yards.

RandyWakeman

Spit patch, stutter strokes up and down, flip over and repeat.

With a dirty T 7 plugs, it may take two trips between shots.

cayugad

In my opinion consistency in everything you do is the key to load development and obtaining the best accuracy out of the rifle and projectile. Some of the things I do;

1. Before doing any loading or shooting, I swab the barrel with a wet patch of 50/50 isopropyl alcohol and car windshield washer fluid on a cleaning/loading jag end. I do both sides of the patch. This is to remove any oil from storage and any crud that might have found its way down the bore. When you work a patch do it in short movements at a time, I never push it down the barrel. If the barrel is fowled, it is a good way to get a stuck patch.

2. I then take a dry patch on the loading jag. I swab down and back up, flip the patch and push it back down to the breech. This is when I pop a couple caps or a couple 209 primers. I can then pull the patch and check it for burn marks to insure that the breech plug or nipple is clear. I will then run one more dry patch down and back up.

3. Load the rifle with the powder charge and projectile. Make sure you put a witness mark on the ramrod at this point. And fire the first round. Check your target and mark that first hole. This will sometimes be different then the other hits.

4. Before I walk to the target, I take a alcohol/washer patch and swab the barrel down, both sides of the patch, and then two dry patches.There is no need to pop any caps of course at this point. Then I let the rifle sit empty with the bolt open and the breech plug open. This gives the rifle to cool down and me too. This is when I check my target.

5. On my return I reload the rifle with charge and projectile making sure I reach the same witness mark on the ramrod. This tells me that all is approximately equal in the loading procedure. I then fire and just keep repeating the swabbing, resting, checking target, reloading, and firing sequence.

Once I have the load worked up. I will often times shoot two or three rounds without swabbing just to see if there is a large difference in their accuracy compared to a swabbing routine... Also the easy way to witness mark the ramrod is with masking tape. When you have the rifle loaded, leave the ramrod on top of the projectile and wrap that tape around the rod, level to the bore of the rifle. You can write on the tape if you like, the powder charge # and the projectile..... That way if you change charges you can remark... Also if you think of it, after about ten shots, give your breech plug just a 1/4 turn out and then back to make sure it is not seizing up. It will save you a lot of headaches at the end of the day....

Hope this is what you meant.. Good luck working up a load.

NVMIKE

Thanks guys thats exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

Pittsburghunter

Hi Mike It depends on how I am approching it if I have one type of powder and bullet to work with it is easier to work up a load but it might not be the best shooting combo for my rifle but the best I can do for that load.

Starting with the clean bore I shoot a couple of rounds swabbing with one wet and one or two dry between shots and then start my testing. If I am using a caplock or older inline I start at 70-80g and work up taking three shot groups and then going up 5g of powder until I pass the best load then test it again to make sure it wasn't a fluke. If I get good results with one particular load it is off to the 100yd range for field testing. If I have other projectiles or powder I do not mix the results. I clean my rifle and start fresh doing the same thing. I can spend hours at the range and only shoot 20-40 rounds when I am testing..

With my Encore I start loads at 100g and work up from there I have no reason to test low power loads in that rifle I will never use it for anything smaller than Northern whitetail.

MD Piney

Limited experience here so bare with me... Shot my muzzleloader the other day using 100 grains of Triple Seven / 250 grain Barnes Expander. Was able to work a nice group at 100 yds so decided to see what 110 grains of powder would do. Not much change at all in regards to shot placement on the target.

Question:On average how much of achange in powder isneeded to see a difference in shot placement? I guess there are allot of variables to be considered, but I was just curiousif there was a rule of thumb.

Thanks for any wisdom in advance...

cayugad

How much of a change in powder will depend on the projectile design and the rifle being used. I can shoot a 250 grain Shockwave out of the Black Diamond XR with 100 grains. I can push that to 120 grains without a big difference in the POI.