nodes
#1
nodes
Greg brought up arrow nodes in another post and assuming many had no idea what this refers to,I decided to copy what Easton has to say about them in their tuning guide.(imo,all bowhunters should own and read this guide regularly)
This shows yet another reason why proper centershot is so important.
This shows yet another reason why proper centershot is so important.
#2
RE: nodes
Ive read a good bit on that before but i always seem to forget what it actually has to do with anything Its just one of those things that doesnt stick b/c you dont usually hear/talk about it much.
Derek
Derek
#3
RE: nodes
This is also why I put more emphasis on insert and nock alignment than I do on actuall arrow striaghtness.the front and back alignment mean more than tha actuall straightness of the arrow as you can clearly see by what the arrow does in flight.The arrow really doesn't have as much flex as it does in the pictures but the flex is there.
AND,it also illustrates why spine(consistancy) is way more important than straightness.BUT the 2 are related.
It should also illustrate why weak is never a good idea and why TOO stiff is also not good,even though stiff is better than weak.You actually want this little bit of flex.
AND,it also illustrates why spine(consistancy) is way more important than straightness.BUT the 2 are related.
It should also illustrate why weak is never a good idea and why TOO stiff is also not good,even though stiff is better than weak.You actually want this little bit of flex.
#4
RE: nodes
Think about it this way,the 2 points of reference are fighting each other and both trying to lead the way if they are not aligned.If you get them aligned,all things become better.Forgiveness of shooter errors are less magnified,low foc is less magnified,and even improper spine.
It just makes things work better and from the diagrams,you can see why fingers shooters are the ones most affected by it.
It just makes things work better and from the diagrams,you can see why fingers shooters are the ones most affected by it.
#5
RE: nodes
Good info- rememeber this from the old Easton tuning manual- amazing just how good tht little 32 pager they wrote 20 years ago was!
Centershot, IMO, is quite important. If I need to move my rest much more than 1/16" either way from center, I try different spine arrows. The arrow should go straight down the power path- everyting should be in line- form, and equipment wise.
Centershot, IMO, is quite important. If I need to move my rest much more than 1/16" either way from center, I try different spine arrows. The arrow should go straight down the power path- everyting should be in line- form, and equipment wise.
#6
RE: nodes
ORIGINAL: JeffB
Good info- rememeber this from the old Easton tuning manual- amazing just how good tht little 32 pager they wrote 20 years ago was!
Centershot, IMO, is quite important. If I need to move my rest much more than 1/16" either way from center, I try different spine arrows. The arrow should go straight down the power path- everyting should be in line- form, and equipment wise.
Good info- rememeber this from the old Easton tuning manual- amazing just how good tht little 32 pager they wrote 20 years ago was!
Centershot, IMO, is quite important. If I need to move my rest much more than 1/16" either way from center, I try different spine arrows. The arrow should go straight down the power path- everyting should be in line- form, and equipment wise.
ABSOLUTELY,I can't believe how many on that other site don't understand this.I see it all the time over there not to worry about it being down the center of the bow.
I also agree with the tuning guide,it would be nice to see them come out with an updated version but most all of it is still applicable today.
#7
RE: nodes
I do hope that by saying "power path" you are referring to the dynamic center of the bow and not the physical center. I know you know this, but just emphasizing it for other who are reading. In other words, most RH hand bows have the string track on the cam offset to the left so the dynamic center is also slightly off to the left..
I do have to agree with you about moving the arrow rest. I initially set mine up with a lazer. I shoot the nocking point on the string and then the point of the arrow laying on the rest. Very seldom do I ever move my rest. If there is a slight spine issue then I figure that's what limb bolts are for.
I always wonder why so many guys are so afraid to turn the wight down on their bows. They get stuck on this idea that a bow works best maxed out. They'll buy and play with different arrows, points, fletching. Cutting arrow down to the last 1/8" because a computer program says "this is what works" when maybe a turn on the limb bolts (free) is all it takes to get near perfect arrow flight.
You know, I'd like to see Easton make two tuning guides. One for release shooters and one for fingers. It would cure a lot of confusion in those with less experience and trying to learn the various tuning processes.
I do have to agree with you about moving the arrow rest. I initially set mine up with a lazer. I shoot the nocking point on the string and then the point of the arrow laying on the rest. Very seldom do I ever move my rest. If there is a slight spine issue then I figure that's what limb bolts are for.
I always wonder why so many guys are so afraid to turn the wight down on their bows. They get stuck on this idea that a bow works best maxed out. They'll buy and play with different arrows, points, fletching. Cutting arrow down to the last 1/8" because a computer program says "this is what works" when maybe a turn on the limb bolts (free) is all it takes to get near perfect arrow flight.
You know, I'd like to see Easton make two tuning guides. One for release shooters and one for fingers. It would cure a lot of confusion in those with less experience and trying to learn the various tuning processes.