dpittman

I would like to know what other wads you guys have used with your TK and whether or not they work. Mainly I would like to know the diff between BPI Multi-metal wads and the TPS wad. I am shooting hevi shot so I would like to get good data before I start wasting hevi. My TK does not shoot lead well at all although I know some do.(don't know why). Does packing the load tight have that much affect? I would think it would pack tight on setback. Is it possible that my jug choke is bad. It seems much larger than my choke. How much is too much? Sorry about all the questions but I don't want to give up on this gun yet.

Gotbuck

I have only used the multi metal "red" ones from BPI and the chilled shot they have in #6 along with their overshot cards and have nothing but awesome results. I am not or looking to experiment with a great gun setup I have.

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3221235US

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=N712

It all depends on the powder, charges, primers, shot and too many other factors to pinpoint why one gun shoots wel and others do not even with the same load data. I use Pyrodex RS Loose and use 110 grains with the wads above and either #4 or #6 chilled lead shot with Remington Kleenbore 209 Primers and the overshot cards above. The packing tight works well for me and I do it all the time.

As far as the jug choke it is supposed to be larger than your choke on the end of the gun. What happens in theory is the shot moves its way up the bore and expands in that area and is constricted before exit by use of the choke on the end of the gun. This only works if you choose not to load the shot with a wad. If you use a wad then the shot is still inside the wad at this point. The wad and shot do not seperate until after outside the barrel. That is why I truly believe that packing it tight gives me those awesome results at long ranges because I can find my shot wads typically 40 yards or so from where I shot the gun which means the shot and wad do seperate somewhere in between and that speed is impressive it the wads are at the 40 yard range.

dpittman

Steve........are you using unslit wads? The picture from Bpi looks like it is unslit.

Gotbuck

Those are the ones I use and they are pre-slit, but you got me wondering what would happen with an unslit wad. Dangit I wonder if anyone here has tried the unslit type and the results they had. I don't think they chenged those to unslit but you never know. You could always cut them yourself. If you are going to use Hevi-shot they make a TPS in yellow that is made for Hevi-shot. I think I also seen a recent post on this by someone who was with Knight and had excellent results with Hevi-Shot.

Gotbuck

Here I found it:

spwidmar
Fawn





Posts: 10
Joined: 1/4/2007
Status: offline drdi ; I should be able to help you with your TK2000 issue. I worked at Knight's for years in the customer service dept. before they left Centerville, Iowa. During the off seasons I traveled extensively around the country with the TK2000,s and did a lot of women and kid's shooting events for the National Wild Turkey Federation and others promoting the TK. My wife also worked for the NWTF at the same time and hunted all over the U.S. with the TK. She stands only 4 ft. 12" tall and ways about what you do.
Part of my job was to test the Tk with every load imaginable, and to help people who were having problems with getting their gun to pattern well.
This is what I found to produce the best patterning turkey loads bar none.My wife and I have shot tons of turkeys with this load. It consists of 80 TO 90 GRAINS (we use 85grains) of Triple 7 FFG powder and Ballistic Products "TPS" shotcup.. The 3" 2oz. shotcup is what you want. They should be Yellow in color. The shotcups used to run around $11.00 for a bag of 100. Top this off with the same little styrofoam over the shot wafer thaat knight sells to hold the shot in the barrel. The shot that almost always shot the best is copperplated # 6 if you can get it. (actually HEVI-SHOT patterns unbelievable with this combo, but is very expensive).If you can't find copperplated , the chilled # 6 will do.They best way to measure out your shot, is to take an empty cup and wrap a bit of electrical tape around the top, and fill it heaping full with shot. Always try to make each load as consistant with the other as possible. That means always try to seat your components with the same pressure too.

This is the exact load my thousands of shots at the factory exceeded all others. It will pattern much, much better than what Knight will tell you to use.Plus the recoil will be manageable for smaller shooters.

If you have trouble fing the shotcups at BP's website, I will look up the part # for you.

dpittman

Steve......The yellow TPS wad is the one I want to try. I just can't seem to believe that a wad is going to do miracles for my gun. I did order a bag of thiose wads so I guess we will see what happens. I was looking at your 45 yard target and I can't even get close to that with a 3.5" 870 with hevi13. I read that post from spwidmar and that is what got me thinking about the yellow BPI wad with hevi shot.
Something has got to shoot out of this gun.......Doug

Gotbuck

I've sold all my other 12 guages and this all I use on birds. What is your load that your using and all the materials? Caps, shot etc..?

dpittman

Steve.... right now I am using 777 BPI multi-metal wads (3.5") and #6 hevi shot (gave up on lead). WIN 209 primer or federal 209. thin strofoam overwshot wad. I put some fillers in wad to cut it down to around 1.75oz. The full wad holds 2.5-2.6 oz. hevi shot. Way too expensive and unnessecary to use that much shot. 1.5oz. of hevishot will outshoot 2.5oz. of lead in my gun. I have TPS wads on order so I will be trying them next week I hope........Doug

Gotbuck

If I were you I would ditch the 3.5" cup especially if you only plan to shoot it say half full of hevi-shot. They do make them in smaller sizes or you could experiment and cut the cups down to the size you need to hold the amount you would like to shoot. The wad fillers could be the issue. You are using good stuff to power the beast so I can only think that the fillers upon ignition may be shifting in the cup toa point in which the shot is getting upset. I fill an entire wad and overcard and ram it tight so I think when I get ignition it like a slug shooting out. Have you ever retreived your wad? I usually find them a ways down range but they look similar to a 50 cal sabot all splayed open. The wad is never burned on the bottom either, it may have a dust colornever burned. That's telling me there was nothing hanging up inside and ignition was smooth. In 50 cal, sometimes you hear of sabots getting torn or split in half downrange which is not what you want of course. Check the inside of the barrel and make sure it is smooth as silk after cleaning. I usually get an alcohol patch run it through then get a dry patch and run it to see if any fibers hang up inside. If they do I reclean it with a nylon brush and repeat.

The other thing I think it could be is you outside choke tube.I use the one that came with it and if I remember right they do make one for steel and hard shot which I beleive you can get from Knight by calling them. I remember because there were 3 diffrent ones I was going to try when I got mine but I wanted to try the one that came with it first and seen no need for the others asI shoot lead shot. I think the manual has some info in there as well. Hang in there, that is one helluva a gun. Again I would look and shortening the wad cup and even look at a diffrent choke tube. I am heading out tomorrow morning to get that big ol tom that keeps hanging up in the fields from me. Hope to connect.

Gotbuck

Here is the manual talking about 3 different chokes. You may want to consider.

http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w322/Gotbuck1127r/tk2000/tk2000.jpg